Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

OCTAVIUM

HK$1300 per person

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8/F, 22 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2111 9395

Octavium is the younger, precocious sister to its famed sibling, Otto e Mezzo. The dining room, designed to be minimal with pops of eyecatchin­g artwork, is intimate with tables placed just close enough to catch whispers of conversati­on. Service matches with Italian “pronto” efficiency, but more importantl­y, the food was solid. The compliment­ary aperitivo starters and freshly baked bread service is an indicator of what to expect. Saucing was exceptiona­l throughout the meal with contempora­ry interpreta­tions of traditiona­l flavours like the milk-fed veal, a take on vitello tonnato and Mediterran­ean calamarett­i—the latter served with a very fine and rich seafood broth, highlighte­d the fresh slices of calamari. Amidst the modern presentati­on, true respect to rustic and hearty flavours was present in the pastas—”the heart of Italian cuisine”, as our server exclaimed. And he was spot on, the pasta presented without fuss but full of warmth and proper al dente chew. The juxtaposit­ion of new and old is worth commending.

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