Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

SPIGA

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There's an oft-held misconcept­ion that for Italian cuisine to be considered authentic, it should be casually slapped up in hearty portions by an apronclad nonna. You'll find none of that at Spiga. Instead, the handsome Central eatery kitted out by Hong Kong designer Joyce Wang draws inspiratio­n from the drama of vintage Italian cinema, with equally elegant servings of food. The first full-fledged Hong Kong restaurant by celebrity chef Enrico Bartolini proffers Italian staples such as osso bucco and vitello tonnato alongside original Bartolini creations that deliciousl­y marry regional flavours. A case in point is the restaurant's best-selling risotto alla Parmiagian­a, which is presented as an artist's palette of deep, rich squid ink sauce (a Venetian influence), garlicky Genovese pesto and generous dollops of parmesan cheese from Central Italy that you have to gingerly spoon together for a different taste with every mouthful. Round out your meal with a broad selection of Italian wines organised by region, and a curated list of treasured global pours.

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