Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
FRANTZEN’S KITCHEN
HK$850 per person
11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2559 8508
www.frantzenskitchen.com On the surface, Frantzen’s Kitchen looks like another Sheung Wan hipster joint— prime corner location in a renovated tong lau, chic Scandinavian interiors, close-packed tables, counter seats and a bearded chef. As the offshoot of Stockholm’s acclaimed Frantzen, however, it is the leading proponent of
New Nordic cuisine in Hong
Kong. Head chef Jim Lofdahl has brought a few signature dishes from Sweden, but much on offer is his own creation. Diners are encouraged to order a couple of bite-size snacks each, then share dishes from the starter, main and dessert section. Expect to find unusual ingredients such as crispy white moss and roe deer meat in the superb, one-bite Swedish sushi, liquorice root in the comforting onion veloute, and birch tree oil in a dessert of thyme ice cream. And what’s not to love in a snack of French Toast that combines aged cheese, truffle and balsamic vinegar with bread? Staff are happy to recommend items, though portions are small and it’s easy for two to cover most of the menu. The wine list skews French from boutique makers, and also features a selection of Swedish beer and spirits. Prices can add up, but this is no ordinary neighbourhood eatery.