DONG LAI SHUN

HK$400 per per­son

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Hong Kong Restaurants -

Base­ment 2, The Royal Gar­den, 69 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2733 2020

www.rghk.com.hk

The Dong Lai Shun brand has been op­er­at­ing for more than a cen­tury, hav­ing orig­i­nated in Beijing in 1903; the Hong Kong branch has been a firm fix­ture at The Royal Gar­den ho­tel since 2004, serv­ing a fa­mil­iar ros­ter of Beijing and Huaiyang cui­sine—many demon­strat­ing bold flavours, in­tri­cate hand­i­work, or both. As the menu is vast, place your trust in the at­ten­tive and know­ing staff—they will gladly guide you through the in­tri­ca­cies of the dishes, con­struct­ing cour­ses that give you a good sense of the kitchen’s skills. A page is ded­i­cated to award-win­ning dishes, which is a good place to start. Wok-fried crab­meat and rock lob­ster with salted egg yolk on rice crack­ers is al­most com­i­cal in its pre­sen­ta­tion; the fin­ger food placed on cu­cum­ber discs atop a blue jelly ‘lake’ upon which a crane carved from radish takes flight. It’s all smoke and mir­rors—bet­ter bets are the homely dishes, such as ten­der stir-fried sweet po­tato leaves in su­pe­rior broth, or pan-fried rab­bit fish im­bued with Chi­nese yel­low wine sauce.

Dong Lai Shun’s sautéed chicken with mat­su­take and minced chicken dumplings

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