DONG LAI SHUN
HK$400 per person
Basement 2, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2733 2020
The Dong Lai Shun brand has been operating for more than a century, having originated in Beijing in 1903; the Hong Kong branch has been a firm fixture at The Royal Garden hotel since 2004, serving a familiar roster of Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine—many demonstrating bold flavours, intricate handiwork, or both. As the menu is vast, place your trust in the attentive and knowing staff—they will gladly guide you through the intricacies of the dishes, constructing courses that give you a good sense of the kitchen’s skills. A page is dedicated to award-winning dishes, which is a good place to start. Wok-fried crabmeat and rock lobster with salted egg yolk on rice crackers is almost comical in its presentation; the finger food placed on cucumber discs atop a blue jelly ‘lake’ upon which a crane carved from radish takes flight. It’s all smoke and mirrors—better bets are the homely dishes, such as tender stir-fried sweet potato leaves in superior broth, or pan-fried rabbit fish imbued with Chinese yellow wine sauce.
Dong Lai Shun’s sautéed chicken with matsutake and minced chicken dumplings