BIBO

HK$1600 per person

163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

TEL: +852 2956 3188

www.bibo.hk

Bibo is renowned as a great place to take visiting art-lovers, thanks to the impressive selection of contemporary art by the likes of Hirst, Banksy and Koons casually strewn about the room. But the frenetic display of colour and thumping beats might make this a better cocktail bar rather than dinner venue. There was excitement in recent times when a chef from the much-loved but now-closed Serge et le Phoque, Nicholas Chew, moved to Bibo to bring his distinctive brand of modern French cuisine to the fore. Unlike many other tasting menus at fine dining restaurants, the six-course Chef’s Imagination stimulates the palate without overworking the digestion. When in season, the slightly tart Japanese saury with a fatty indulgent slice of jamon on top in a spicy bisque is the perfect autumnal dish, while the celeriac risotto with mango and truffles is a memorable vegetarian starter; but overall the impression was that the chef has yet to find his feet in this new setting. A few dishes were served at an odd temperature; while other simply had too many flavours competing for attention. Still, lovers of contemporary art will find much to enjoy in this modern French restaurant nestled in the heart of artsy Sheung Wan.

In Hong Kong, top quality dining experiences often lurk in the unlikeliest places