SIL­VIA FUR­MANOVICH

Dar­ing de­signs com­bine her metic­u­lous at­ten­tion to de­tail with her wide-rang­ing pas­sions for the nat­u­ral world, where an­cient cul­tures and un­usual ma­te­ri­als meet.

World Travel Magazine - - Style File -

My most trea­sured col­lec­tion…

I can’t pick a favourite – it would be like pick­ing a favourite child! But one of the re­cent col­lec­tions I feel very ex­cited about is the mar­quetry col­lec­tion, which I am still de­vel­op­ing into new shapes and forms.

The col­lec­tion is a re­sult from a trip I took to the north of Brazil, al­most to the fron­tier of Peru, where I vis­ited a group of ar­ti­sans. One of the guides told an amaz­ing story about be­ing raised in the for­est. Very skill­ful in wood mar­quetry, he had stud­ied to be a priest; the Ger­man priests al­lowed him to at­tend four years in a Ger­man univer­sity. After­wards, he came back to the for­est and opened his own busi­ness.

The lo­cal team is very tal­ented and they’ve made some­thing I would have never imag­ined pos­si­ble to cre­ate in the smaller scale of jew­ellery. It’s a very Brazil­ian col­lec­tion. The pieces light­weight and colour­ful, the de­signs are based on tree branches, feathers in a va­ri­ety of colours, geo­met­ric pat­terns of gems, and flow­ers from the Ama­zon.

My lat­est col­lec­tion…

In­spired by In­dia’s art, ar­chi­tec­ture and cul­ture, my lat­est col­lec­tion draws on the tra­di­tional art of minia­ture paint­ing. Dur­ing a trip to New York in 2016, I found my­self stand­ing at the Metropoli­tan Mu­seum of Art among 100 mas­ter­ful paint­ings in the ex­hi­bi­tion “Di­vine Plea­sures: Paint­ing from In­dia’s Ra­jput Courts”. The Ex­hi­bi­tion por­trayed epic and po­etic lit­er­a­ture, com­mis­sioned by Ra­jasthan roy­alty from the 16th through the 19th cen­turies, cel­e­brat­ing the di­verse styles of In­dian paint­ing. Mes­merised by the works, I later em­barked on a 40-day artis­tic pil­grim­age through In­dia, in­clud­ing New Delhi, Jodh­pur, Udaipur, Jaipur and Pushkar. In Udaipur, I en­coun­tered ar­ti­sans who have spe­cialised in the painstak­ing tra­di­tion of minia­ture paint­ing since the 16th cen­tury. Their art form evoked the vividly coloured works I en­coun­tered in the New York ex­hi­bi­tion.

I then com­mis­sioned ar­ti­sans from Udaipur to cre­ate dream­like nat­u­ral scenes, in­tri­cate fig­ures and vi­brant pat­terns on scal­loped pieces of wood and bone for her new­est col­lec­tion. The pieces are painted with brushes of just one or two squir­rel-tail hairs, util­is­ing min­eral-based pig­ments made of crushed gems such as blue lapis lazuli and green mala­chite, as well as yel­low sul­phur, black car­bon and red iron ox­ide. Sculpted in sil­hou­ettes rem­i­nis­cent of Mughal ar­chi­tec­tural el­e­ments, the works are then mounted into state­ment ear­rings with gem­stones echo­ing the hues of the paints, in­clud­ing emer­alds, ru­bies, sap­phires, tour­ma­lines, di­a­monds and South Sea pearls. Be­yond the minia­ture pieces, other de­signs in the col­lec­tion in­cor­po­rate el­e­ments and ma­te­ri­als in­spired by In­dia’s rich artis­tic her­itage. Thin slabs of in­laid mar­ble are trans­formed into ear­rings with pre­cious stones and di­a­monds. Ar­chi­tec­tural de­tails of Hindu tem­ples are mim­icked in carv­ings from rose quartz, rock crys­tal and green jade. Ru­drak­sha beads, a tal­is­man associated with the god Shiva, are strung into neck­laces and ear­rings.

Trav­els in­spire me…

A trip to any city in the world is enough to in­spire me! It could be any­thing: a frieze from a mau­soleum in In­dia; the gilded forms of a Baroque pic­ture frame in a mu­seum; wo­ven bam­boo pieces from Thai­land at a lo­cal ar­ti­san mar­ket; flora and fauna from the Ama­zon rain­for­est; tex­tiles found at an­tique shops in Ja­pan...the list is end­less!

My favourite city…

One of my favourite places in the world is

Ubud, Bali. I am in love with the ver­dant, lush land­scape and feel at home there, and it is the per­fect set­ting for prac­tis­ing yoga.

My rec­om­men­da­tions…

Peo­ple trav­el­ling to São Paulo should cer­tainly visit MASP – Museu de Arte de São Paulo (Mu­seum of Art of São Paulo), de­signed by the Ital­ian-born, Brazil­ian-based mid-cen­tury ar­chi­tect Lina Bo Bardi. The works in their pri­vate col­lec­tion are ex­hib­ited in chrono­log­i­cal or­der, and dis­played so that the backs of each paint­ing can be seen be­cause they are framed be­tween glass sheets, held to­gether by con­crete bases. It is a very sur­pris­ing and in­no­va­tive way of dis­play­ing art!

My travel must-haves…

I never leave with­out laven­der and gera­nium es­sen­tial oils (com­bined as fra­grance); Triphala sup­ple­ments (I am ob­sessed with Ayurveda’s prin­ci­ples ever since hav­ing dis­cov­ered it in In­dia a few years ago); my yoga mat; make up from RMS Beauty; and my iphone ear­phones!

My week­end re­treat…

I like do­ing yoga re­treats dur­ing the week­ends, which helps me get bal­anced and cen­tred.

My favourite ho­tels…

<> Any Aman re­sort around the world: the Aman­jiwo, one of my favourite ones, is a spir­i­tual re­sort in Java, and has ex­tra­or­di­nary views over Borobudur.

<> As­aba Ryokan lo­cated in Ja­pan’s Izu Penin­sula: the prop­erty dates from the 17th cen­tury, over­looks a pond and is sur­rounded by bam­boo forests. There are also hot springs on the prop­erty––a mag­i­cal and restora­tive ex­pe­ri­ence!

<> The Green­wich Ho­tel in New York City: the best place to stay in town, the dé­cor is un­der­stated yet in­cred­i­bly chic, a mas­sage in the Ja­panese-in­spired Shibui spa is di­vine! The ho­tel brought over 250-year old Ja­panese barn beams into the spa, which adds a very bal­anc­ing, calm­ing en­ergy to the space.

<> The Four Sea­sons Is­tan­bul at Sul­tanah­met: it is a re­mark­able build­ing in one of the his­toric parts of the city. Hav­ing break­fast at the ho­tel’s out­door in­ner court­yard dur­ing a sum­mer day is in­cred­i­ble; you can smell jas­mine flow­ers in the air and the place is full of hum­ming­birds! <> Ho­tel Daniel in Paris – the chi­nois­erie dé­cor is ex­quis­ite, and the rooms are very cosy.

Find my col­lec­tion…

You can find a se­lec­tion of my work at Bergdorf Good­man, in New York City.

Trends for 2018…

I am not sure if this only ap­plies to 2018, but in par­al­lel to the un­prece­dented tech­no­log­i­cal ad­vance­ments of the last year, I would say the jew­ellery world has seen a re­turn to crafts­man­ship and tra­di­tional ar­ti­san tech­niques with an em­pha­sis on the hand. My work is all about this.

My work look…

A sim­ple white ki­mono-like cot­ton dress, very com­fort­able and suited to the heat.

My hol­i­day look…

A beau­ti­ful caf­tan with a gor­geous, vi­brant print, and lots of jew­ellery!

My rec­om­men­da­tion on pick­ing up the right jew­ellery…

Don’t be afraid to wear dar­ing, bold pieces...one has to have fun.

Since launch­ing her brand over 15 years ago, Sil­via Fur­manovich has be­come one of the most vi­sion­ary artists work­ing in fine jew­ellery to­day. Born in São Paulo, Brazil, into a line of Ital­ian gold­smiths, her great-grand­fa­ther cre­ated sa­cred adorn­ments for the Vat­i­can and her fa­ther worked as a goldsmith. As a child, Fur­manovich spent hours work­ing be­side her fa­ther in his ate­lier. She es­tab­lished an ap­point­ment-only jew­ellery busi­ness in 1998 and opened her first stand­alone bou­tique in São Paulo in 2009.

THE WORLD OF JEW­ELLERY HAS SEEN A RE­TURN TO CRAFTS­MAN­SHIP AND AN­CIENT AR­TI­SANAL TECH­NIQUES WITH AN EM­PHA­SIS ON THE HAND.

Clock­wise from left, All three ear­rings set in 18k gold with di­a­mond and fol­low­ing in­di­vid­ual de­tails: 1. green tour­ma­line, mar­ble and mala­chite; 2. tan­zan­ite, car­nelian and mother-of-pearl; 3. pearl, emer­ald and minia­ture paint­ing Above, Sil­via...

This page, Sil­via in her São Paulo-based ate­lier

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