Lucerne: The Art and Romance of the Alps
A thriving cosmopolitan city with the soul of an Alpine village and the heart of an artist Lucerne curves around the crystalline waters of its stunning lake. Romantic, creative and cultured Lucerne is Switzerland’s hidden pearl.
Lucerne is Switzerland’s hidden hot-spot. This lakeside beauty is cultured and vivacious capturing the traveller’s imagination and heart.
The once sleepy village of Lucerne has transformed itself into a cosmopolitan playground with some truly awe-inspiring mountain scenery. This lakeside beauty is just an hour from Zurich and one and a half from Bern making it perfect for long weekends that could easily extend to weeks. As Switzerland’s latest hot-spot, Lucerne is peppered with a selection of haute-design hotels and spas, excellent cuisine and a rich culture making it a charming and relaxed counterpart to Zurich’s urban buzz and Bern’s historic hush.
Lucerne’s appeal stems from the postcard views across the crystalline waters of the lake. Bankside pathways make for romantic strolling with the Alps watching from beyond the spires and rooftops of the old town. Antique steam-powered paddleboats crisscross the lake and if you allow yourself a moment you can be transported back to a time where life was lived at a slower pace. The 15-minute walk up the quaint cobbled streets to the top of the medieval old town is rewarded with stunning views across the city and lake. Three towers adorn the city walls with the Zyt Tower containing the city’s ancient clock held up by two painted giants. As is fitting for the town’s main clock it chimes exactly one minute before any other giving you just enough time to adjust your Swiss-made watch.
Frescoes abound across buildings throughout the city the finest of which adorns the Pfistern Guildhouse where solid local fare is served in a traditional wood-panelled restaurant. Further medieval artistry
can be seen in the magnificent 200-metre 14th-century wooden footbridge of Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). While the paintings inside the Chapel Bridge portray tidbits from Lucerne’s history the less visited Spreuerbrücke Bridge is just as beautiful although a little darker in content. The 17th-century paintings depict a traditional medieval danse macabre, an allegorical contemplation on the inevitability of death. Despite the rather ghoulish theme the bridge is a delight and should not be missed.
A few minutes north of the old town lays Lucerne’s most poignant landmark. The haunting Lion of Lucerne has a suitably tragic and grief-stricken story behind it. While on leave in Lucerne in 1792 an officer of the Swiss Guard received news that over six hundred of his comrades had fallen victim to revolutionary forces in Paris. Years later he was moved to commission this memorial as a tribute to their loss, its quiet dignity an inspiration to artists as diverse as Victorian polymath Thomas Carlyle and US punk icon Patti Smith attest to its lasting power.
The peak of Mount Pilatus looms above the city and can’t be forgotten but before embarking on its heady heights it will pay to nourish the body. Lucerne has become a magnet for culinary innovators in recent years. One of the more notable talents is Johan Breedijk who heads up La Scala located within the art deco beauty of the Hotel Montana. This 15-point Gault & Millau fine dining restaurant has a menu that changes daily and features the best of
local produce. If you find yourself there in the right season do not miss the white asparagus with potato, egg and Parma ham. The hotel itself is divine; its art deco exterior complemented with a warm contemporary interior. If you’re after something a little more traditional head to Stiefels Hopfenkrantz for modern takes on Swiss classics or the more refined menu at the renowned Brasserie Bodu overlooking the river, where a booking is essential.
Slightly away from the main town lies the series of four
Bürgenstock Hotels and Resorts, with the main five-star hotel and alpine spa sitting right above the lake. Rooms have an up-to-theminute contemporary style but the views are timeless, with a choice of lake or mountain vistas and some suites featuring bathtubs-witha-view heated by an open fire, which is the perfect accompaniment to the hotel’s wellness facilities.
The three Bürgenstock spas provide a variety of steam baths, saunas and an abundance of signature treatments. It’s entirely possible to spend your whole time in Lucerne working through the treatment menus. Of the seven excellent eateries in the complex, the
Sharq Oriental serves an exquisitely executed Middle Eastern menu and the shisha terrace is something really different. Alternatively, after chancing your luck at the gaming tables at the opulent Grand
Casino, you can find reprieve in the refined ambience and gourmet cuisine of its Michelin-starred restaurant Olivo, or celebrate your winnings on the dance floor of the Casineum.
At more than two kilometres high, Mount Pilatus goes by the Tolkien-like nickname Dragon Mountain and dominates the landscape. During the summer season, it can be explored in stylish opulence, with the Golden Tour following in the footsteps of historical figures such as Queen Victoria and President Theodore Roosevelt. Pootle across the lake on a vintage paddle steamer then disembark to climb aboard one of the world’s steepest cogwheel railways, which will glide you effortlessly to the summit. Several excellent restaurants at the top offer seasonal delicacies to nibble on while taking in the stunning views.
Day trips from Lucerne are recommended if you are able to drag yourself away. An aerial cable car goes to the top of nearby
Mount Titlis where a wander through the magical caves and grottos of the Engelberg Glacier and the summer flower trails provide the ultimate alpine experience. Mount Rigi is often called the Queen of the Mountains. An easy day-trip to this majestic monolith allows you views across Lake Lucerne, Lake Laurez and Lake Zug with the vistas sweeping over the jagged snow-capped Alps all the way to Germany’s Black Forest.
Back in Lucerne town centre head up to Château Gütsch where high-tea is served with an array of Swiss pasties fit for a fairy-tale queen and include views across the stunning ensemble of town, lake, and mountains. To walk off the inevitable post-pastry regret take a