SPOT­LIGHT...

The Bi­en­nale des An­ti­quaires (Paris Bi­en­nale), a ven­er­a­ble art and an­tiques fair, held at the Grand Palais in Paris, brings high jew­ellery de­sign­ers and lux­ury jew­ellery houses into its fold. Noted for their cre­ativ­ity and col­lec­tor’s pieces, the likes of

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A Quar­tet Of Amaz­ing De­sign­ers

GLENN SPIRO

De­but­ing at the Bi­en­nale, Lon­don jew­eller Glenn Spiro brought forth a mes­meris­ing col­lec­tion of wear­able art in clus­ters of coloured gems and di­a­monds. One-off works of art in pre­cious met­als and in­no­va­tive ma­te­ri­als like ti­ta­nium and car­bon, Spiro’s “pre­his­toric look­ing” fish­bone ear­rings in white gold and ti­ta­nium sparkle with spes­sar­tite gar­nets, or­ange sap­phires and di­a­monds.

De­mure and clas­sic Colom­bian emer­ald ear­rings were paired with the glo­ri­ous Ja­ha­nara white gold and di­a­mond cuff, which fea­tured an eye-pop­ping 40.51-carat (D-In­ter­nally Flaw­less) pear­shaped di­a­mond that can be re­moved and worn as a ring.

The light­weight Clover ear­rings in ti­ta­nium sprang into a riot of rich brown and warm burnt or­ange. The hero piece was un­doubt­edly Spiro’s string of emer­ald-cut emer­alds and di­a­mond bracelet with a stun­ning 85.45-carat carved Colom­bian emer­ald (in­ter­est­ingly, a for­mer 17th cen­tury In­dian archer’s thumb ring) beau­ti­fully ac­cented with oval-shaped rose-cut di­a­monds.

BOGHOS­SIAN

Geneva jew­eller Boghos­sian has, over the course of six gen­er­a­tions, ini­ti­ated a cre­ative di­a­logue be­tween the East and the West. The re­sult was a col­lec­tion of an­tique pieces at the fair, show­cas­ing their her­itage and artistry. Work­ing with se­lect ate­liers and crafts­men in Switzer­land, Italy and Ger­many to cre­ate jew­ellery with ex­cep­tional coloured gems, the mai­son’s know-how sparkled through the In­lay, Kiss­ing Di­a­monds and Les Merveilles col­lec­tions.

The iconic In­lay se­ries fea­tures a stone set into another, wherein each stone is carved and shaped to per­fec­tion: it bor­rows upon artis­tic in­spi­ra­tions from Eastern civ­i­liza­tions, Mughal era, an­cient Egyp­tian pe­ri­ods, in­clud­ing Ming porce­lain ob­jects and Iznik tile dec­o­ra­tions, the jew­els re­veal a depth and mys­tery that is ever so cap­ti­vat­ing. The Les Mervilles col­lec­tion – launched ear­lier in 2017 – com­prises jew­ellery set with di­a­monds on all four sides in a clever way that barely re­veals any metal. The deftly laid di­a­monds and gems in the Kiss­ing Di­a­monds col­lec­tion, meld­ing in a per­fect har­mony of colours and pro­por­tions, were quite sen­sa­tional.

ANNA HU

In 2013, Tai­wan-born de­signer Anna broke the world auc­tion record for the high­est price paid for a con­tem­po­rary jew­ellery de­signer at the Christie’s Mag­nif­i­cent Jew­els Geneva sale. A look at the new­est cre­ations for her brand, Anna Hu Haute Joail­lerie, un­veiled at the Bi­en­nale re­veals just why. Aes­thet­ics that marry Eastern and Western cul­tures through bold and dar­ing de­signs that of­ten ref­er­ence na­ture, drag­on­fly, but­ter­fly and art are in­deed at­ten­tion-grab­bing. Her Monet art­workin­spired necklace and the newer Wa­ter Lilies Princess necklace, Mag­pie brooch, Dragon Fly brooch, Athena Siren Aria brooch and Sum­mer Bam­boo ear­rings, En­chanted Orchid ring-cuff adorned in pre­cious gems – emer­alds, Paraiba, tsa­vorites, sap­phires, gar­nets, tour­ma­lines, di­a­monds, tan­zan­ites – are amaz­ing ex­am­ples of col­lectible jew­ellery.

MOUSSAIEFF

In­ter­est­ing de­sign pos­si­bil­i­ties un­folded as de­signer and man­ag­ing di­rec­tor Alisa Moussaieff cre­ated star pieces for the fair, all cen­tred on the “con­cept of light­ness”. Pre­cious gems and state­ment jew­ellery were crafted at the brand’s high­jew­ellery work­shop in Paris. Moussaieff chooses im­por­tant gem­stones to adorn its pieces—the ti­ta­nium and di­a­mond feather necklace, fea­tur­ing a 57.21-carat Paraiba tour­ma­line and di­a­monds, is a trib­ute to Em­press Eu­ge­nie, the wife of Louis-Napoleon Bon­a­parte III. Rem­i­nis­cent of the sky and sea with the be­witch­ing Paraiba, this necklace was a show­stop­per.

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