The Biennale des Antiquaires (Paris Biennale), a venerable art and antiques fair, held at the Grand Palais in Paris, brings high jewellery designers and luxury jewellery houses into its fold. Noted for their creativity and collector’s pieces, the likes of
A Quartet Of Amazing Designers
Debuting at the Biennale, London jeweller Glenn Spiro brought forth a mesmerising collection of wearable art in clusters of coloured gems and diamonds. One-off works of art in precious metals and innovative materials like titanium and carbon, Spiro’s “prehistoric looking” fishbone earrings in white gold and titanium sparkle with spessartite garnets, orange sapphires and diamonds.
Demure and classic Colombian emerald earrings were paired with the glorious Jahanara white gold and diamond cuff, which featured an eye-popping 40.51-carat (D-Internally Flawless) pearshaped diamond that can be removed and worn as a ring.
The lightweight Clover earrings in titanium sprang into a riot of rich brown and warm burnt orange. The hero piece was undoubtedly Spiro’s string of emerald-cut emeralds and diamond bracelet with a stunning 85.45-carat carved Colombian emerald (interestingly, a former 17th century Indian archer’s thumb ring) beautifully accented with oval-shaped rose-cut diamonds.
Geneva jeweller Boghossian has, over the course of six generations, initiated a creative dialogue between the East and the West. The result was a collection of antique pieces at the fair, showcasing their heritage and artistry. Working with select ateliers and craftsmen in Switzerland, Italy and Germany to create jewellery with exceptional coloured gems, the maison’s know-how sparkled through the Inlay, Kissing Diamonds and Les Merveilles collections.
The iconic Inlay series features a stone set into another, wherein each stone is carved and shaped to perfection: it borrows upon artistic inspirations from Eastern civilizations, Mughal era, ancient Egyptian periods, including Ming porcelain objects and Iznik tile decorations, the jewels reveal a depth and mystery that is ever so captivating. The Les Mervilles collection – launched earlier in 2017 – comprises jewellery set with diamonds on all four sides in a clever way that barely reveals any metal. The deftly laid diamonds and gems in the Kissing Diamonds collection, melding in a perfect harmony of colours and proportions, were quite sensational.
In 2013, Taiwan-born designer Anna broke the world auction record for the highest price paid for a contemporary jewellery designer at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Geneva sale. A look at the newest creations for her brand, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, unveiled at the Biennale reveals just why. Aesthetics that marry Eastern and Western cultures through bold and daring designs that often reference nature, dragonfly, butterfly and art are indeed attention-grabbing. Her Monet artworkinspired necklace and the newer Water Lilies Princess necklace, Magpie brooch, Dragon Fly brooch, Athena Siren Aria brooch and Summer Bamboo earrings, Enchanted Orchid ring-cuff adorned in precious gems – emeralds, Paraiba, tsavorites, sapphires, garnets, tourmalines, diamonds, tanzanites – are amazing examples of collectible jewellery.
Interesting design possibilities unfolded as designer and managing director Alisa Moussaieff created star pieces for the fair, all centred on the “concept of lightness”. Precious gems and statement jewellery were crafted at the brand’s highjewellery workshop in Paris. Moussaieff chooses important gemstones to adorn its pieces—the titanium and diamond feather necklace, featuring a 57.21-carat Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds, is a tribute to Empress Eugenie, the wife of Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte III. Reminiscent of the sky and sea with the bewitching Paraiba, this necklace was a showstopper.