The 22-karat gold jewellery pieces that ADORN has selected for the Cover Feature are laboriously handcrafted — sometimes taking over four months to realise. What makes these grand pieces unusual is the artistic inclusion of bezel-set polkis or villandis (uncut diamonds) and rose-cut diamonds that lend a gentle, subdued shimmer – this is the patented speciality of the CVM Group* that has two brands Villandi and Bariki- G, both effectively marrying gold and uncuts in various finishes. With a rich legacy of four decades, the company is known for its innovations in gold jewellery by way of featuring textures, engravings, filigree and granulation, beadwork and unique gem settings, to keep alive the time-honoured craft of making JUD (Junagadh Uncut Diamond) jewellery that birthed in Gujarat. Polkis, chakris and rose cuts – these are all variants of diamonds that are either not polished or semi-polished with fewer facets. The design tradition of JUD jewellery is an art form over 1,000 years old and was patronised during the Mughal era.
The company is run by two young dynamic brothers and partners, Deepak and Jugal Choksi, who have the same vision and aesthetic sense.
“We focus on highlighting the raw beauty of diamonds,” says Deepak. “Though the format of our jewellery may seem traditional, we play a lot with form as well as use innovative techniques to set diamonds that lend a contemporary twist to our collections. In fact, we were the first jewellery brand to revive JUD jewellery art in a big way.”
Jugal joins in, “Other than diamonds, we also use rubies as they are an integral part of this type of jewellery. In general, our jewellery employs open back setting and we use no wax.”
For the Cover Feature, ADORN chose some of CVM’s statement bridal pieces and paired them with modern- day couture silhouettes to make it relevant for today’s bride.
A quick fact or two for those who are not sure about these terms: polkis are uncut diamonds featuring a flat side on one end and a tapering structure on the other. More often than not, the tapering side goes up in a setting. Rose-cut diamonds resemble the flower and have a dome top with 24 facets.