MAIN­STREAM TRA­DI­TION­AL­ISTS

Adorn - - COVER FEATURE - Ju­gal and Deepak Choksi

The 22-karat gold jew­ellery pieces that ADORN has se­lected for the Cover Fea­ture are la­bo­ri­ously hand­crafted — some­times tak­ing over four months to re­alise. What makes these grand pieces un­usual is the artis­tic in­clu­sion of bezel-set polkis or vil­lan­dis (un­cut di­a­monds) and rose-cut di­a­monds that lend a gen­tle, sub­dued shim­mer – this is the patented spe­cial­ity of the CVM Group* that has two brands Vil­landi and Bariki- G, both ef­fec­tively mar­ry­ing gold and un­cuts in var­i­ous fin­ishes. With a rich legacy of four decades, the com­pany is known for its in­no­va­tions in gold jew­ellery by way of fea­tur­ing tex­tures, en­grav­ings, fil­i­gree and gran­u­la­tion, bead­work and unique gem set­tings, to keep alive the time-hon­oured craft of mak­ing JUD (Ju­na­gadh Un­cut Di­a­mond) jew­ellery that birthed in Gu­jarat. Polkis, chakris and rose cuts – these are all vari­ants of di­a­monds that are ei­ther not pol­ished or semi-pol­ished with fewer facets. The de­sign tra­di­tion of JUD jew­ellery is an art form over 1,000 years old and was pa­tro­n­ised dur­ing the Mughal era.

The com­pany is run by two young dy­namic broth­ers and part­ners, Deepak and Ju­gal Choksi, who have the same vi­sion and aes­thetic sense.

“We fo­cus on high­light­ing the raw beauty of di­a­monds,” says Deepak. “Though the for­mat of our jew­ellery may seem tra­di­tional, we play a lot with form as well as use in­no­va­tive tech­niques to set di­a­monds that lend a con­tem­po­rary twist to our col­lec­tions. In fact, we were the first jew­ellery brand to re­vive JUD jew­ellery art in a big way.”

Ju­gal joins in, “Other than di­a­monds, we also use ru­bies as they are an in­te­gral part of this type of jew­ellery. In gen­eral, our jew­ellery em­ploys open back set­ting and we use no wax.”

For the Cover Fea­ture, ADORN chose some of CVM’s state­ment bridal pieces and paired them with mod­ern- day cou­ture sil­hou­ettes to make it rel­e­vant for to­day’s bride.

A quick fact or two for those who are not sure about these terms: polkis are un­cut di­a­monds fea­tur­ing a flat side on one end and a ta­per­ing struc­ture on the other. More of­ten than not, the ta­per­ing side goes up in a set­ting. Rose-cut di­a­monds re­sem­ble the flower and have a dome top with 24 facets.

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