SMITHA SADANANDAN looks at the new design ideas from young jewellery graduates at the International Jewellery London (IJL) show.
IJL’s Emerging Gems
Britain is brimming with young talent. And annual jewellery shows like the International Jewellery London (IJL) is one such destination to discover a new breed of designers in the UK. Katharina Kraus, Zeemou Zeng, Daisy Grice and Yayun Fang have got off to a great start as IJL’s Bright Young Gems - 2018. What made these designers stand out among their peers?
Katharina’s design aesthetic is unmistakably gem-centric, minimalistic and geometric. Her fascination with the angular lines found in the architecture of cityscapes and the depth of carved lines in stone and concrete, when seen from the ground, finds bearing in her creations. Katharina employs carved gems, a core design element, in her creations that highlight the natural light reflection in gemstones. “I first develop the gemstone shape and then design the jewellery around the stone,” says Katharina, who primarily works in sterling silver and 14- or 18-karat yellow gold. The Nexus ring, showcased at IJL, is set with natural dark grey agate and green tourmaline. She combines translucent agate and transparent quartz with coloured gems such as topaz, rhodolith and tourmaline. “I look for subtle colour combinations and, of course, how they reflect the light. That’s one of the reasons I love grey agate so much. It goes incredibly well with lots of colours – and because of the way it’s been cut, it produces a golden shimmer from inside,” she says.
The Nexus ring in sterling silver and 18-karat vermeil set with natural dark grey agate and green tourmaline.
Katharina Kraus Central Saint Martins, University Of The Arts London