SMITHA SADANANDAN looks at the new de­sign ideas from young jew­ellery grad­u­ates at the In­ter­na­tional Jew­ellery Lon­don (IJL) show.


IJL’s Emerg­ing Gems

Bri­tain is brim­ming with young tal­ent. And an­nual jew­ellery shows like the In­ter­na­tional Jew­ellery Lon­don (IJL) is one such des­ti­na­tion to dis­cover a new breed of de­sign­ers in the UK. Katha­rina Kraus, Zeemou Zeng, Daisy Grice and Yayun Fang have got off to a great start as IJL’s Bright Young Gems - 2018. What made these de­sign­ers stand out among their peers?

Katha­rina’s de­sign aes­thetic is un­mis­tak­ably gem-cen­tric, min­i­mal­is­tic and geo­met­ric. Her fas­ci­na­tion with the an­gu­lar lines found in the ar­chi­tec­ture of cityscapes and the depth of carved lines in stone and concrete, when seen from the ground, finds bear­ing in her cre­ations. Katha­rina em­ploys carved gems, a core de­sign el­e­ment, in her cre­ations that high­light the nat­u­ral light re­flec­tion in gem­stones. “I first de­velop the gem­stone shape and then de­sign the jew­ellery around the stone,” says Katha­rina, who pri­mar­ily works in ster­ling sil­ver and 14- or 18-karat yel­low gold. The Nexus ring, show­cased at IJL, is set with nat­u­ral dark grey agate and green tour­ma­line. She com­bines translu­cent agate and trans­par­ent quartz with coloured gems such as topaz, rhodolith and tour­ma­line. “I look for sub­tle colour com­bi­na­tions and, of course, how they re­flect the light. That’s one of the rea­sons I love grey agate so much. It goes in­cred­i­bly well with lots of colours – and be­cause of the way it’s been cut, it pro­duces a golden shim­mer from in­side,” she says.

The Nexus ring in ster­ling sil­ver and 18-karat ver­meil set with nat­u­ral dark grey agate and green tour­ma­line.

Katha­rina Kraus Cen­tral Saint Martins, Univer­sity Of The Arts Lon­don

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