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This wasn’t a well-planned tour, last minute tick­ets hastily bought to view the fa­mous cat­tle fair in Nagaur and its his­tor­i­cal fort. I charted out the en­tire plan on my train jour­ney and next day I was at hum­ble Nagaur sta­tion, with my dis­be­liev­ing eyes drink­ing in the sights, as­sur­ing my­self I was still in this cen­tury. ‘The town looks an­cient,’ I thought, and it was teem­ing with crowds com­ing to at­tend the cat­tle fair at the be­gin­ning of Fe­bru­ary. Nagaur is in the arid north­west of In­dia’s largest state, Ra­jasthan. Bor­der­ing the Thar desert, most of the cityscape had been painted a royal yel­low, with a mag­nif­i­cent Fort stand­ing in the mid­dle of the city, and the city walls echo­ing legends from time im­memo­rial and the fort re­flect­ing its glory and val­our.

I was soon drawn into a his­tory les­son by my chauf­feur as we drove to the ho­tel in the fort. A ma­jor draw for any­one seek­ing an im­mer­sion in courtly his­tory, Nagaur grew from a strate­gic trad­ing point to the cen­tre of Ra­jputana power in its hey­day. Naguar lived un­der the in­flu­ence of con­querors from vastly dif­fer­ent cul­tures. Over time it gained a dis­tinct Ra­jput­mughal ar­chi­tec­tural de­sign as gar­dens, tem­ples and foun­tains were added. Pass­ing

Nagaur fort

Photo credit: G. Brindha

Tank inside Nagaur Fort

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