Menswear cel­e­brates com­mer­cial sim­plic­ity: Sil­hou­ettes & De­tail Trends for Fall/Win­ter 2018

SIL­HOU­ETTES & DE­TAIL TRENDS FOR FALL/WIN­TER 2018

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A fluc­tu­a­tion of mas­sive pro­por­tions is un­der play on the men’s fash­ion scene con­tin­u­ing from the last cou­ple of sea­sons. As the era of re­fined suit­ing comes to an end, thanks to ca­sual work wardrobes, de­sign­ers ap­pear lost in terms of their creative di­rec­tion while new brand iden­ti­ties are be­ing charted ev­ery­where.

It has be­come a great time for de­sign­ers to step away from do­ing what they call their sig­na­ture styles and of­fer a fresh take on fash­ion’s mod­ern sil­hou­ette. How­ever, it is ob­vi­ous that de­sign­ers are well aware of the fact that cre­ativ­ity comes at a price and so in­no­va­tion is not as avant-garde as it used to be, but it is there none­the­less.

At Ber­luti, we saw but­tery soft leather coats and Lan­vin brought for­ward a clin­i­cally clean col­lab­o­ra­tion of Mac­in­tosh jack­ets but for Ar­mani, the di­rec­tion was im­par­tially business with sharp tai­lored dou­ble­breasted suit form­ing a big por­tion of the line-up. Func­tion­al­ity was also in prime fo­cus. Even though streetwear is now an over­all styling norm ev­ery­where to ap­pease the mil­len­nial buy­ers, the sil­hou­ette’s shape and size still be­came much more com­mer­cially vi­able this time.

Closer home, Naresh Ku­mar of Kashvi De­signs af­firms Ap­parel Online team’s sen­ti­ments for the sea­son ex­plain­ing that there is noth­ing overtly trendy in the men’s fash­ion de­mand from buy­ers ei­ther. The sil­hou­ettes are fairly ba­sic with polo and round neck T-shirt, a pop­u­lar pick as al­ways. As for value ad­di­tion, there is a fo­cus on crisp col­lars where jacquards or prints are be­ing em­ployed. The ubiq­ui­tous bomber jacket has be­come much lighter and trans-sea­sonal and is def­i­nitely a hot sell­ing re­tail item, com­ing with vis­i­ble zip­pers and large pock­ets in var­i­ous colours.

From body-con­scious suit­ing to large patch pock­ets, here are some of ma­jor sil­hou­ettes and de­tails spot­ted in the Men’s Fall/Win­ter 2018-19 col­lec­tions.

ZIP LOCK

In­no­va­tive clo­sures have be­come the big­gest value ad­di­tion of choice for men’s ap­parel. While a few de­sign­ers re­pur­posed them as dec­o­ra­tive ap­plique, this sea­son has been more or less fo­cused on keep­ing touch with the zip­per’s in­tended util­i­tar­ian use.

Hype vis­i­ble zips that fas­ten from bot­tom to top as seen at Wales Bon­ner, Todd Sny­der or used as clo­sures for over­sized patch pock­ets like over the jack­ets at Sa­cai and Bal­main were com­mon oc­cur­rences this sea­son.

TRACK DE­TAIL­ING

Sports remix­ing has be­come an in­te­gral part of the mod­ern man’s

Even though sports in­spi­ra­tion and streetwear have be­come an over­all styling norm to ap­pease the mil­len­nial buyer, this sea­son’s sil­hou­ette and size are much more com­mer­cially vi­able than the last few sea­sons.

wardrobe. Thus, the reign of ath­letic-bent de­tail­ing is here to stay. There was an abun­dance of full bod­ied track suits at shows like Dries Van Noten and Astrid An­der­sen on the run­way. In ad­di­tion to this, the side­ward strip­ing and hor­i­zon­tal lines on the chest which are a main­stay in sporty cloth­ing were used ev­ery­where to make use of the sporty style on a vari­a­tion of tai­lored sil­hou­ettes in nonknitwear pieces.

IRONIC LOGOPLAY

Hy­per vis­i­ble brand loy­alty is back in business. Brands, rang­ing from big lux­ury play­ers like Gucci and Ver­sace to re­tail­ers like

FILA, GAP and Tommy Hil­figer, are hop­ping on the logo wagon. Nev­er­the­less the best part is see­ing how her­itage brands like Valentino and Louis Vuit­ton are re­touch­ing their logo us­ing new type­faces and some hu­mour to keep things fresh sea­son af­ter sea­son.

The place­ment of lo­gos is be­com­ing ex­tremely cen­tred and some are even used re­peat­edly as an all over print at brands like Blood Brother and Fendi.

ANTI OVER­SIZE

For at least a cou­ple of years, over­size sil­hou­ettes were driv­ing the trend cal­en­dar sea­son af­ter sea­son. The shape was a sign of com­fort and pro­tec­tion but it seems that trends have been com­ing to pass with sev­eral de­sign­ers mix­ing their over­size jack­ets with some body-con­scious pieces.

In terms of suit­ing, the sil­hou­ette is re­laxed with some­what loose fit­ting pants but the shape never for­ays into the world of floppy. There is a sense of re­fine­ment to every­thing from bomber jack­ets, over­coats and business suit­ing.

PARKA

In a sur­pris­ing turn of events, sim­ple pro­tec­tive rain­coats have be­come fash­ion’s favourite out­er­wear trend for both men and women. Rid­ing on the same wave and wind cheat­ing parkas that were ex­tremely pop­u­lar with men’s de­sign­ers who proved that break­ing through the wind does not have to look bor­ing.

The grunge out­doorsy ap­peal of the parka was chan­nelled at pre­sen­ta­tions of pop­u­lar la­bels like Issey Miyake,

Wal­ter Van Beiren­donck and OAMC in both brightly coloured as well as trans­par­ent vari­a­tions.

TOP­STITCH­ING

Value ad­di­tion has never looked as demo­cratic as this sea­son. A fairly sim­ple de­tail like top­stitch­ing is get­ting nods from ev­ery de­signer. As easy run­way to re­al­ity style, top­stitch­ing is be­ing used on state­ment seams or sim­ply to cre­ate graphic seam­lines and even give the il­lu­sion of pop-up stripes.

From jump­suits at Fac­etasm, denim jack­ets at bot­tega

Veneta, long mil­i­tary style coats from Pyer Moss to the wide leg denim trousers at Y-Pro­ject, top­stitch­ing is out in full fo­cus this sea­son.

It is a great time for de­sign­ers to step away from their sig­na­ture styles and of­fer a fresh take on the new male sil­hou­ette and the sports remix­ing is an in­te­gral part of that. Value ad­di­tion is driven by util­ity and de­tails like pock­ets or zips that ac­tu­ally up­date the func­tion­al­ity of a gar­ment are in fo­cus.

POCK­ETS

The util­ity move­ment is in full swing and with that comes trends which are not rev­o­lu­tion­ary but ex­tremely ver­i­ta­ble for the pro­duc­ers of fash­ion. State­ment pock­ets and sim­ple square pock­ets in gen­eral have con­tin­ued on from 2017 and thanks to the prac­ti­cal­ity of this de­tail, it is def­i­nitely a trend.

At Charles Jef­ferey, the pock­ets were as big as a bag and de­tach­able, Mai­son Margiela went for clear see pocket on fit­ted jack­ets and rest ev­ery­one was us­ing top­stitch­ing or flaps to make their pock­ets stand out.

OVER­SHIRT

Fash­ion is fast mov­ing to­wards a sea­son-less world. De­sign­ers now have a global clien­tele and they do not want to limit of­fer­ings to one mar­ket. As a re­sult of this new de­mand for tran­si­tional cloth­ing, the hum­ble over­shirt has be­come a com­mon­al­ity on ev­ery ramp.

The over­shirt or ‘shacket’ was made in raw denim at shows like Willy Chavar­ria, or in or­ange prison uni­form style at N. Hooly­wood and with ribbed out sleeves at Todd Sny­der.

Fash­ion re­tail has be­come in­creas­ingly over­crowded and the tremors are be­ing felt ev­ery­where. De­sign­ers know that cre­ativ­ity comes at a price and thus, in­no­va­tion has be­come sec­ondary to prac­ti­cal­ity this sea­son.

I IRONIC LOGOPLAY Un­der­cover

I ANTI OVER­SIZE Bot­tega Veneta

I TOP­STITCH­ING Pyer Moss

I PARKA Issey Miyake

I ZIP LOCK Sa­cai

I TRACK DE­TAIL­ING Fac­etasm

I POCK­ETS Charles Jef­frey Lover­boy

I OVER­SHIRT Todd Sny­der

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