Menswear celebrates commercial simplicity: Silhouettes & Detail Trends for Fall/Winter 2018
SILHOUETTES & DETAIL TRENDS FOR FALL/WINTER 2018
A fluctuation of massive proportions is under play on the men’s fashion scene continuing from the last couple of seasons. As the era of refined suiting comes to an end, thanks to casual work wardrobes, designers appear lost in terms of their creative direction while new brand identities are being charted everywhere.
It has become a great time for designers to step away from doing what they call their signature styles and offer a fresh take on fashion’s modern silhouette. However, it is obvious that designers are well aware of the fact that creativity comes at a price and so innovation is not as avant-garde as it used to be, but it is there nonetheless.
At Berluti, we saw buttery soft leather coats and Lanvin brought forward a clinically clean collaboration of Macintosh jackets but for Armani, the direction was impartially business with sharp tailored doublebreasted suit forming a big portion of the line-up. Functionality was also in prime focus. Even though streetwear is now an overall styling norm everywhere to appease the millennial buyers, the silhouette’s shape and size still became much more commercially viable this time.
Closer home, Naresh Kumar of Kashvi Designs affirms Apparel Online team’s sentiments for the season explaining that there is nothing overtly trendy in the men’s fashion demand from buyers either. The silhouettes are fairly basic with polo and round neck T-shirt, a popular pick as always. As for value addition, there is a focus on crisp collars where jacquards or prints are being employed. The ubiquitous bomber jacket has become much lighter and trans-seasonal and is definitely a hot selling retail item, coming with visible zippers and large pockets in various colours.
From body-conscious suiting to large patch pockets, here are some of major silhouettes and details spotted in the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 collections.
Innovative closures have become the biggest value addition of choice for men’s apparel. While a few designers repurposed them as decorative applique, this season has been more or less focused on keeping touch with the zipper’s intended utilitarian use.
Hype visible zips that fasten from bottom to top as seen at Wales Bonner, Todd Snyder or used as closures for oversized patch pockets like over the jackets at Sacai and Balmain were common occurrences this season.
Sports remixing has become an integral part of the modern man’s
Even though sports inspiration and streetwear have become an overall styling norm to appease the millennial buyer, this season’s silhouette and size are much more commercially viable than the last few seasons.
wardrobe. Thus, the reign of athletic-bent detailing is here to stay. There was an abundance of full bodied track suits at shows like Dries Van Noten and Astrid Andersen on the runway. In addition to this, the sideward striping and horizontal lines on the chest which are a mainstay in sporty clothing were used everywhere to make use of the sporty style on a variation of tailored silhouettes in nonknitwear pieces.
Hyper visible brand loyalty is back in business. Brands, ranging from big luxury players like Gucci and Versace to retailers like
FILA, GAP and Tommy Hilfiger, are hopping on the logo wagon. Nevertheless the best part is seeing how heritage brands like Valentino and Louis Vuitton are retouching their logo using new typefaces and some humour to keep things fresh season after season.
The placement of logos is becoming extremely centred and some are even used repeatedly as an all over print at brands like Blood Brother and Fendi.
For at least a couple of years, oversize silhouettes were driving the trend calendar season after season. The shape was a sign of comfort and protection but it seems that trends have been coming to pass with several designers mixing their oversize jackets with some body-conscious pieces.
In terms of suiting, the silhouette is relaxed with somewhat loose fitting pants but the shape never forays into the world of floppy. There is a sense of refinement to everything from bomber jackets, overcoats and business suiting.
In a surprising turn of events, simple protective raincoats have become fashion’s favourite outerwear trend for both men and women. Riding on the same wave and wind cheating parkas that were extremely popular with men’s designers who proved that breaking through the wind does not have to look boring.
The grunge outdoorsy appeal of the parka was channelled at presentations of popular labels like Issey Miyake,
Walter Van Beirendonck and OAMC in both brightly coloured as well as transparent variations.
Value addition has never looked as democratic as this season. A fairly simple detail like topstitching is getting nods from every designer. As easy runway to reality style, topstitching is being used on statement seams or simply to create graphic seamlines and even give the illusion of pop-up stripes.
From jumpsuits at Facetasm, denim jackets at bottega
Veneta, long military style coats from Pyer Moss to the wide leg denim trousers at Y-Project, topstitching is out in full focus this season.
It is a great time for designers to step away from their signature styles and offer a fresh take on the new male silhouette and the sports remixing is an integral part of that. Value addition is driven by utility and details like pockets or zips that actually update the functionality of a garment are in focus.
The utility movement is in full swing and with that comes trends which are not revolutionary but extremely veritable for the producers of fashion. Statement pockets and simple square pockets in general have continued on from 2017 and thanks to the practicality of this detail, it is definitely a trend.
At Charles Jefferey, the pockets were as big as a bag and detachable, Maison Margiela went for clear see pocket on fitted jackets and rest everyone was using topstitching or flaps to make their pockets stand out.
Fashion is fast moving towards a season-less world. Designers now have a global clientele and they do not want to limit offerings to one market. As a result of this new demand for transitional clothing, the humble overshirt has become a commonality on every ramp.
The overshirt or ‘shacket’ was made in raw denim at shows like Willy Chavarria, or in orange prison uniform style at N. Hoolywood and with ribbed out sleeves at Todd Snyder.
Fashion retail has become increasingly overcrowded and the tremors are being felt everywhere. Designers know that creativity comes at a price and thus, innovation has become secondary to practicality this season.
I IRONIC LOGOPLAY Undercover
I ANTI OVERSIZE Bottega Veneta
I TOPSTITCHING Pyer Moss
I PARKA Issey Miyake
I ZIP LOCK Sacai
I TRACK DETAILING Facetasm
I POCKETS Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
I OVERSHIRT Todd Snyder