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Print Di­rec­tions for Men’s S/S ’19

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From Tie & Dye to The Simp­sons: Print Di­rec­tions for Men’s S/S ’19

The last few years have seen an end­less thin­ning of the menswear cal­en­dar and this sea­son was no dif­fer­ent. As we all know, many de­sign­ers have com­bined their men’s and women’s lines men­tion­ing a ‘co­he­sive cre­ative vi­sion’ as the rea­son be­hind this move. This, how­ever, has not damp­ened the menswear mar­ket at all.

In more joy­ous news for the menswear cre­ators, fore­casts from Euromon­i­tor sug­gests that luxury men’s fash­ion will out­pace the growth of wom­enswear at 1.9% in 2021 in com­par­i­son to just 1.4% for the lat­ter. Ad­di­tion­ally, it was also re­ported that there was gen­eral con­sen­sus amongst buy­ers at Paris Fash­ion Week Men’s that they are in­creas­ing buy­ing bud­gets owing to a very pos­i­tive pre­sen­ta­tion sea­son.

Sid­ney Toledano, CEO, LVMH chimed in with the report, “There’s strong de­mand across the men’s fash­ion industry, in all its shapes and forms, and which comes in part from a younger clien­tele. We see it very clearly in the sales.”

The rea­son be­hind all the cheer­i­ness in men’s is both the rise of streetwear and a re­turn to el­e­gance on full dis­play. From preppy tai­lor­ing, flo­rals to re­laxed suit­ing, func­tional fab­rics and an om­bré meets tie & dye ap­proach to prints – both the new sil­hou­ettes and pat­terns of the sea­son look very fresh. More­over, a closer look at the prints and pat­terns dec­o­rat­ing these lines re­veals that a rain­bow tint hap­pi­ness is the defin­ing trend. De­sign­ers are us­ing fash­ion as a pos­i­tive es­cape. We un­cover some of the main mo­tifs and trends that brands are dec­o­rat­ing their ar­mour with for the upcoming sea­son.

What Works and Al­ways Will

There are some pat­terns that are as loud as they are om­nipresent. You can­not com­plete a roundup with­out a clas­sic-like stripe, which for S/S ’19 is tak­ing a thick, bright and ver­ti­cal route! The print was seen in the col­lec­tions of la­bels like Bal­main, Cer­ruti and Daniel Fletcher across a range of sil­hou­ettes.

Vi­neet Sood of SD En­ter­prises also cor­rob­o­rates that bold stripes in colours that range as far and wide as neon to black and white, con­tinue to be in high­est de­mand. In terms of tech­niques, Sood’s team is fo­cus­ing more on dis­charge print­ing for the pro­duc­tion of all-over pat­terns in vivid colour­ways.

Next trend that has only got­ten big­ger and bolder in the last few sea­sons are clash­ing pat­terns used in the same piece of cloth­ing. Whether it’s mix-match­ing stripes of vary­ing weigh­tage, or com­bin­ing two batch of checks and flo­rals, ‘pat­tern clash’ is a trend to ex­plore for ev­ery­thing from men’s, women’s to kidswear in the com­ing sea­son.

Menswear is heat­ing up and will sur­pass the growth of wom­enswear in the luxury mar­ket. “There’s strong de­mand across the men’s cat­e­gory, in all its shapes and forms, and which comes in part from a younger clien­tele. We see it very clearly in the sales.” – Sid­ney Toledano

What’s New

LAND­SCAPE: Print­ing, em­broi­der­ing or even knit­ting cov­etable views of beau­ti­ful land­scape is a hot new trend that is per­son­i­fy­ing our es­capist fan­tasies. NV Kr­ish­namoor­thy of S V Knits tells our team that there is a huge de­mand for scenic views as centre-placed over­size prints. Buy­ers (mostly from Europe) are go­ing beyond the ba­sic stripes and are ask­ing for “multi-coloured views of surf des­ti­na­tions and places you see when you hike up moun­tains on tops and T-shirts.” Kr­ish­namoor­thy adds that while dig­i­tal print­ing dom­i­nates, he is see­ing a ris­ing de­mand for pho­to­sen­si­tiv­ity in prints, mean­ing pat­terns that change colours and re­act to the sun­light when you step out of a build­ing. Even re­flec­tive or holo­graphic ma­te­ri­als are a hot new favourite for the high street for adding nov­elty to prints. This is per­haps a next step from last sea­son’s photo-prints as many of these prints stay true to their life size. TIE & DYE: Good news for In­dian man­u­fac­tur­ers! The an­cient re­sist-dye­ing tech­nique, pop­u­larised by Amer­i­can hip­pies as tie & dye is back with a bang on in­ter­na­tional run­ways.

The print was seen mostly in a very ba­sic ver­sion on T-shirts and sweat­shirts but some em­ployed sec­tions of tie and dyed fab­rics in re­worked shirt­ing and as a print on jack­ets and parkas.

TOONS: An off-shoot of hiphop in­spired fash­ions of the streetwear wave, ev­ery­one from The Simp­sons to anime char­ac­ters, are mak­ing an ap­pear­ance on the run­way this Spring. As if this an­i­mated pa­rade wasn’t enough, CFDA, the or­gan­iser of New York

Fash­ion Week has en­tered an al­liance with Car­toon Net­work.

The al­liance will pave way for both fash­ion de­sign­ers and the car­toon con­glom­er­ate to work on part­nered mer­chan­dise.

This move has al­ready trans­lated into one of the sea­son’s ma­jor print trends and need­less to say, we will be see­ing many more of these an­i­mated char­ac­ters and car­toon scenes dot­ted across var­i­ous run­ways in the women’s fash­ion week as well.

Pete Yoder, VP, Car­toon

Net­work En­ter­prises – North Amer­ica says, “It’s a huge pri­or­ity for us be­cause we want to ad­dress our fan base with the more tra­di­tional li­censed prod­uct that’s more ac­ces­si­ble, and we also want to give our su­per fans some­thing spe­cial that they can call their own.”

FLORA: At Dsquared2, flo­rals were printed on PVC for sleekly sporty shirts, while Amiri and

Ann Demule­meester chan­nelled flower power in dainty sheer ma­te­ri­als. Kim Jones left no flower un­touched for his first col­lec­tion for Dior Homme where we saw ren­di­tions of the print in dark, light and softly tinted back­grounds.

The boys in flo­ral take a very con­fi­dently fem­i­nine ap­proach as most de­sign­ers are us­ing it as an all-over print.

WHILE THE STRIPES, CHECKS AND FLO­RALS ARE AN EVER­GREEN FAVOURITE FOR PRINTS IN ANY MAR­KET THIS SEA­SON, THE SHOW WAS STOLEN BY LAND­SCAPE VIEWS AND AN­I­MATED CHAR­AC­TERS! “There is a ris­ing de­mand for pho­to­sen­si­tiv­ity in prints, mean­ing pat­terns that change colours and re­act to the sun­light when you step out. Even re­flec­tive or holo­graphic ma­te­ri­als are a hot new favourite amongst the high street buy­ers.” – NV Kr­ish­namoor­thy, Ex­ec­u­tive Di­rec­tor, S V Knits

Bal­main

AmiriDior HommeMSGM

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