Innovation Is The Key!
A report on the interesting innovations in detailing for the upcoming season
What makes a garment interesting? It has to be the various details that go into making a dress worth admiring and, of course, buying. There are several segments of details that are the highlights of an ensemble. For the coming season, designers have worked out some interesting innovations that have turned detailing into an art. Meher Castelino reports.
Over the centuries, it is the rise and fall of hemlines that has enabled fashionistas to recognise the era from which the garments appeared. So, for 2018, hemlines are the most interesting detail that seem to add pizzazz to an outfit. The asymmetric hemline has been a hot favourite for many seasons and Amrich has it for a tunic. More asymmetry comes in the form of an angular hemline by Aneehka that almost resembles a toga. Wide, billowy, knee-length hemline with a frill is feminine by Ayushman Mitra, while Half Full Curve favours the tulip look. The grand ball gown inspiration with scallops, works really well for a lehenga from Jayanti Reddy but Mohammed Mazhar’s long bubble hemline is ideal for hot climates. A hemline need not be boring and s straight, states Mohammed Mazhar har once more a as he adds spikey triangles to its edge. Tarun Tahiliani’s hemline is a curved, bias, ias, cut version with high sides and a rounded front ont and back. When it comes to a shirtdress, Urvashi vashi Kaur just lengthens the basic shirt and allows s the round hemline to attract attention.
Besides the hemline, the top of the garment, the neckline, also adds that stylish feminine touch ch to every outfit. A neckline can be sexy or demure re and SVA prefers the former as the draped choli holi has a sensuous off-shoulder one. Amrich goes es for the demure high shirt collar, while Anita Dongre’s bridal wear cholis are seductive with h plunge necklines with a hint of a slim shawl collar
or another optionn option offers a dramaatic dramatic ‘U’ shaped neckline kli id ideal l t to adddd add a chokerhk choker tto to the neck. When it’s a stylish blazer then it has to be a shawl collar with a one-button closure that will project a power girl look from Helena Larsen Bajaj.
Glamour for an ethnic creation comes in the form of a wide V-neck that looks splendid for a black kurta by Kotwara. Lajjoo C also gives a nod to the broad shoulder-to-shoulder V-neck that adds elegance to a Kalidar kurta. The illusion neckline is one of the most exciting additions for the next season and Manish Malhotra has a fully beaded tasselled choli that gives the illusion of an off-shoulder neckline.
The double-breasted closure needs a shawl collar for stylish kurtas by Mohammed Mazhar. The collar is a great addition to highlight a neckline, which Rajesh Pratap Singh does with a new version of the notched lapels. The simple plunge plun neckline for a gown adds elegance to a Ravi Rav Bhalotia creation, while Reshma Kunhi’s offshoulder embroidered choli is an ornate creation.
The fusion halter and cutaway shoulders look from Saaksha and Kinni is an interesting innovation. The sweetheart neckline is a must from Shyamal and Bhumika for their choli, while Sreejith Jeevan ensures that the V-neck is right for a white blouse. For Verandah, the knotted halter is perfect for the beach but Vrisa prefers the cute Peter Pan collar for a blouse.
It is said an outfit is incomplete without pockets and Anita Dongre adds side pockets to her bridal lehengas. Anvita Sharma and Asit Barik are lavish with large pockets on jackets, trousers and waists. De Belle adds large bellow pockets to Jodhpuri pants, Helena Larsen Bajaj and Jenjum
Gadi put them on loose covers, while Ka-Sha includes small ones on long, tiered, ombré maxis. Ritu Kumar’s kangaroo pockets on blousons, Rara Avis’ waist pockets, Padmaja’s concealed ones and Maku’s slit options are a great variety to choose from.
Shoulder styles are often the cynosure of ensembles, so 431-88 reveals a long-sleeved, one-shoulder garment. Half Full Curve and Julie Shah go off-shoulder but Helena Larsen Bajaj has power shoulders for the 80s look. Nakita Singh even has an off-shoulder blouse with a sari while Narendra Kumar opts for extended shoulders for a sporty look. The double-breasted blazer has to have firm shoulders from Rajesh Pratap Singh, while Shriya Som’s cold-shoulder gown is a perfect Red Carpet entry. Shloka Sudhakar prefers cutaway shoulders for a choli and so does Rara Avis for a tiered satin gown. For Sayantan Sarkar it’s the drooping shoulders that make a fashion statement.
Each season the silhouettes change a little and for the coming season there are numerous options. The silhouettes move from wide and swirling to slim and draped with layering playing an important role. Payal Singhal’s draped trousersari combo is a great offering. Tarun Tahiliani’s draped gown with a mini poncho and 431-88 with a fluid version are two opposites of the same garment. The simple long shirt-kurta from Amoh by Jade is a cool creation, while Amrich’s long trapeze outfit offers freedom. Anaam feels a jumpsuit with a one-sleeve cape is a ‘must have’ but Aratrik Dev Varman’s asymmetric hemline kaftan makes a style statement. The kimono silhouette returns for layers of garments by ASA. Ashwini Reddy’s swirling layered sheer smock is a great fashion addition, while Ayushman Mitra’s loose blouse over a sari is interesting. The voluminous Kalidar kurta still works for Gaurang Shah but on the other hand, Hemang Agrawal feels a double-breasted, slim, pleated kurta style
EACH SEASON THE SILHOUETTES CHANGE A LITTLE AND FOR THE COMING SEASON, THERE ARE NUMEROUS OPTIONS.
dress is the look for the coming season. Cropped poncho tops with a draped skirt from Jayanti Reddy, the angarkha by Amrich, pastel trouser-suit and asymmetric top with dhoti from Urvashi Kaur will be the highlights of the season. Black and white colour blocked asymmetric tunic by Soham Dave, double-breasted, white, longsleeved, fluid jacket from Rajesh Pratap Singh and the spaghetti strap, layered trapeze top by Punit Balana are ideal for the steamy months. Vineet and Rahul’s simple two-piece pantsuit with shirt will be a great basic wardrobe requirement.
ADDING STYLE TO A GARMENT ARE PLEATS. HEMANG AGRAWAL HAS A FULL COLLECTION WITH PLEATS WHILE RITU KUMAR USES PLEATS AND PIN TUCKS FOR HER SUMMER COLLECTION AS SURFACE TREATMENT.
PLEATS AND PINTUCKS NTUCKS
Adding style to a garment are pleats. Hemang Agrawal has a full collection with pleats, while Ritu Kumar uses pleats and pin tucks for her summer collection as surface treatment.
If shoulders are important can sleeves be far behind? Bloni and Lovebirds have extended sleeves that are the look for the coming season, while Crow has wide fluid ones. Dhruv Kapoor
adds drawstrings to his billowy sleeves. The feminine balloon sleeves are back for Mohammed med Mazhar, while Naushad Ali has simple long sleeves with wrist tie-ups. Nishka Lulla’s flared, cuffed sleeves are good comfort wear, while Rara ara Avis feels bell shaped, printed, sheer sleeves add dd style to a summer dress. The cape sleeves are still popular for Shantanu and Nikhil as well as Tarun Tahiliani but Shriya Som’s giant feathered d sleeves are great for the formal look.
One of the most prominent accessories is the belt that adds fashionable character to a dress. The leather obi is favoured by Anamika Khanna, while Ridhi Mehra, Tahweave, De Belle and Punit Balana add a thin one. Rara Avis goes for a wide leather cummerbund with animal motifs but Sanjukta Dutta has it in brocade with tassels. Boleros are a great accessory for De Belle and Neha Agrawal, while Ridhi Mehra feels a mini shoulder-cape looks feminine. Scarves are a ‘must have’ to complete the look from Nakita Singh.