In­no­va­tion Is The Key!

Apparel - - Contents July 2018 -

A re­port on the in­ter­est­ing in­no­va­tions in de­tail­ing for the up­com­ing sea­son

What makes a gar­ment in­ter­est­ing? It has to be the var­i­ous de­tails that go into mak­ing a dress worth ad­mir­ing and, of course, buy­ing. There are sev­eral seg­ments of de­tails that are the high­lights of an en­sem­ble. For the com­ing sea­son, designers have worked out some in­ter­est­ing in­no­va­tions that have turned de­tail­ing into an art. Me­her Castelino re­ports.


Over the cen­turies, it is the rise and fall of hem­lines that has en­abled fash­ion­istas to recognise the era from which the gar­ments ap­peared. So, for 2018, hem­lines are the most in­ter­est­ing de­tail that seem to add piz­zazz to an out­fit. The asym­met­ric hemline has been a hot favourite for many sea­sons and Am­rich has it for a tu­nic. More asym­me­try comes in the form of an an­gu­lar hemline by Aneehka that al­most re­sem­bles a toga. Wide, bil­lowy, knee-length hemline with a frill is fem­i­nine by Ayush­man Mi­tra, while Half Full Curve favours the tulip look. The grand ball gown in­spi­ra­tion with scal­lops, works re­ally well for a lehenga from Jayanti Reddy but Mo­hammed Mazhar’s long bub­ble hemline is ideal for hot cli­mates. A hemline need not be bor­ing and s straight, states Mo­hammed Mazhar har once more a as he adds spikey tri­an­gles to its edge. Tarun Tahil­iani’s hemline is a curved, bias, ias, cut ver­sion with high sides and a rounded front ont and back. When it comes to a shirt­dress, Ur­vashi vashi Kaur just length­ens the ba­sic shirt and al­lows s the round hemline to at­tract at­ten­tion.


Be­sides the hemline, the top of the gar­ment, the neck­line, also adds that stylish fem­i­nine touch ch to ev­ery out­fit. A neck­line can be sexy or de­mure re and SVA prefers the for­mer as the draped choli holi has a sen­su­ous off-shoul­der one. Am­rich goes es for the de­mure high shirt col­lar, while Anita Don­gre’s bridal wear cho­lis are se­duc­tive with h plunge necklines with a hint of a slim shawl col­lar

or an­other op­tionn op­tion of­fers a dra­maatic dra­matic ‘U’ shaped neck­line kli id ideal l t to ad­ddd add a chok­erhk choker tto to the neck. When it’s a stylish blazer then it has to be a shawl col­lar with a one-but­ton clo­sure that will project a power girl look from Helena Larsen Ba­jaj.

Glam­our for an eth­nic cre­ation comes in the form of a wide V-neck that looks splen­did for a black kurta by Kot­wara. La­jjoo C also gives a nod to the broad shoul­der-to-shoul­der V-neck that adds ele­gance to a Kal­i­dar kurta. The il­lu­sion neck­line is one of the most exciting ad­di­tions for the next sea­son and Man­ish Mal­ho­tra has a fully beaded tas­selled choli that gives the il­lu­sion of an off-shoul­der neck­line.

The dou­ble-breasted clo­sure needs a shawl col­lar for stylish kur­tas by Mo­hammed Mazhar. The col­lar is a great ad­di­tion to high­light a neck­line, which Ra­jesh Pratap Singh does with a new ver­sion of the notched lapels. The sim­ple plunge plun neck­line for a gown adds ele­gance to a Ravi Rav Bhalo­tia cre­ation, while Reshma Kunhi’s off­shoul­der em­broi­dered choli is an or­nate cre­ation.

The fu­sion hal­ter and cut­away shoul­ders look from Saak­sha and Kinni is an in­ter­est­ing in­no­va­tion. The sweet­heart neck­line is a must from Shya­mal and Bhu­mika for their choli, while Sree­jith Jee­van en­sures that the V-neck is right for a white blouse. For Veran­dah, the knot­ted hal­ter is per­fect for the beach but Vrisa prefers the cute Peter Pan col­lar for a blouse.


It is said an out­fit is in­com­plete without pock­ets and Anita Don­gre adds side pock­ets to her bridal lehen­gas. An­vita Sharma and Asit Barik are lav­ish with large pock­ets on jack­ets, trousers and waists. De Belle adds large bel­low pock­ets to Jodh­puri pants, Helena Larsen Ba­jaj and Jen­jum

Gadi put them on loose cov­ers, while Ka-Sha in­cludes small ones on long, tiered, om­bré maxis. Ritu Ku­mar’s kan­ga­roo pock­ets on blousons, Rara Avis’ waist pock­ets, Pad­maja’s con­cealed ones and Maku’s slit op­tions are a great va­ri­ety to choose from.


Shoul­der styles are of­ten the cyno­sure of en­sem­bles, so 431-88 re­veals a long-sleeved, one-shoul­der gar­ment. Half Full Curve and Julie Shah go off-shoul­der but Helena Larsen Ba­jaj has power shoul­ders for the 80s look. Nakita Singh even has an off-shoul­der blouse with a sari while Naren­dra Ku­mar opts for ex­tended shoul­ders for a sporty look. The dou­ble-breasted blazer has to have firm shoul­ders from Ra­jesh Pratap Singh, while Shriya Som’s cold-shoul­der gown is a per­fect Red Car­pet en­try. Shloka Sud­hakar prefers cut­away shoul­ders for a choli and so does Rara Avis for a tiered satin gown. For Sayan­tan Sarkar it’s the droop­ing shoul­ders that make a fash­ion state­ment.


Each sea­son the silhouettes change a lit­tle and for the com­ing sea­son there are nu­mer­ous op­tions. The silhouettes move from wide and swirling to slim and draped with lay­er­ing play­ing an im­por­tant role. Payal Sing­hal’s draped trouser­sari combo is a great of­fer­ing. Tarun Tahil­iani’s draped gown with a mini pon­cho and 431-88 with a fluid ver­sion are two op­po­sites of the same gar­ment. The sim­ple long shirt-kurta from Amoh by Jade is a cool cre­ation, while Am­rich’s long trapeze out­fit of­fers free­dom. Anaam feels a jump­suit with a one-sleeve cape is a ‘must have’ but Ara­trik Dev Var­man’s asym­met­ric hemline kaf­tan makes a style state­ment. The ki­mono silhouette re­turns for lay­ers of gar­ments by ASA. Ash­wini Reddy’s swirling lay­ered sheer smock is a great fash­ion ad­di­tion, while Ayush­man Mi­tra’s loose blouse over a sari is in­ter­est­ing. The vo­lu­mi­nous Kal­i­dar kurta still works for Gau­rang Shah but on the other hand, He­mang Agrawal feels a dou­ble-breasted, slim, pleated kurta style


dress is the look for the com­ing sea­son. Cropped pon­cho tops with a draped skirt from Jayanti Reddy, the an­garkha by Am­rich, pas­tel trouser-suit and asym­met­ric top with dhoti from Ur­vashi Kaur will be the high­lights of the sea­son. Black and white colour blocked asym­met­ric tu­nic by So­ham Dave, dou­ble-breasted, white, longsleeved, fluid jacket from Ra­jesh Pratap Singh and the spaghetti strap, lay­ered trapeze top by Pu­nit Balana are ideal for the steamy months. Vi­neet and Rahul’s sim­ple two-piece pantsuit with shirt will be a great ba­sic wardrobe re­quire­ment.



Ad­ding style to a gar­ment are pleats. He­mang Agrawal has a full col­lec­tion with pleats, while Ritu Ku­mar uses pleats and pin tucks for her sum­mer col­lec­tion as sur­face treat­ment.


If shoul­ders are im­por­tant can sleeves be far be­hind? Bloni and Love­birds have ex­tended sleeves that are the look for the com­ing sea­son, while Crow has wide fluid ones. Dhruv Kapoor

adds draw­strings to his bil­lowy sleeves. The fem­i­nine bal­loon sleeves are back for Mo­hammed med Mazhar, while Naushad Ali has sim­ple long sleeves with wrist tie-ups. Nishka Lulla’s flared, cuffed sleeves are good com­fort wear, while Rara ara Avis feels bell shaped, printed, sheer sleeves add dd style to a sum­mer dress. The cape sleeves are still pop­u­lar for Shan­tanu and Nikhil as well as Tarun Tahil­iani but Shriya Som’s gi­ant feath­ered d sleeves are great for the for­mal look.


One of the most prom­i­nent ac­ces­sories is the belt that adds fash­ion­able char­ac­ter to a dress. The leather obi is favoured by Anamika Khanna, while Ridhi Mehra, Tah­weave, De Belle and Pu­nit Balana add a thin one. Rara Avis goes for a wide leather cum­mer­bund with an­i­mal mo­tifs but San­jukta Dutta has it in bro­cade with tas­sels. Boleros are a great ac­ces­sory for De Belle and Neha Agrawal, while Ridhi Mehra feels a mini shoul­der-cape looks fem­i­nine. Scarves are a ‘must have’ to com­plete the look from Nakita Singh.

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