SPLENDID, SUSTAINABLE STYLES
The Green Fashion India Conference 2018 played host to some fabulous, out-of-the-box, sustainable fashion collections and trends. Meher Castelino reports.
‘Sustainability’ and ‘green fashion’– the two words were part of the Green Fashion India (GFI) Conference 2018 held from October 5-6, 2018 at Kala Academy, Goa, which was an initiative of the Maharshi Karve Stree Shikshan Samstha's (MKSSS) School of Fashion Technology (SOFT), Pune. The theme of the GFI Conference 2018 was ‘Green Connect for Social Design’, where experts and designers came together to share their fashion thoughts and creations on
the ramp and discussed the way forward for recycled, upcycled, organic, sustainable fashion that will help India and its environment.
Sustainability in fashion has been aggressively pushed around the world and at the GFI Conference 2018, it was in the form of a glamorous fashion extravaganza that brought the collections of students as well as Indian and foreign brands on the ramp.
THE GERMAN ACCENT
From Germany, a cluster of exciting brands made their presence felt, thanks to the expertly curated lines by Berlin-based Philippe Werhahn, Designer and Owner of TingDing, and Strategic Advisor, Green Fashion India.
A clever collection of upcycling–where dresses were transformed into jumpers and blouses into skirts as well as the other way around–was seen for the TingDing label. The motto of the label is ‘Wasting Waste is a Waste of Resources’, so discarded textiles were turned into quality garments by Philippe Werhahn. Here was timeless women’s wear, which was created from old clothes.
Considered the most sustainable fashion label in the world, Kollateralschaden by Philippe Werhahn is for active people. Creative designing appeared for buyers who love to dress up in clothes that speak a language all their own. The combination of fabrics and designs was unconventional and brought the fragile with the flimsy.
The Aluc brand worked with upcycling to create fashion that saved resources. Since 2010, upcycling is done with raw materials that are turned into high quality designs which emphasise fair and transparent production.
Flowmance showcased eco-chic fashion that had exciting, elegant fabrics which revealed the designs of flower artists, thus making the creations ideal for daily and evening wear. Clean shapes were visible for the Format collection that was also relaxed and elegant, created from organic and ethically sourced materials which were produced in Berlin. The collection was season-specific keeping to the latest trends.
The Linda Sofia label has made ‘turning old into new’ its speciality, so the look was playful, with a focus on keeping the planet green with
the fashion collection. Tauko was a recycled brand made from 100 per cent high quality recycled Finnish and German textiles. The garments were designed and crafted in easy European silhouettes in Finland, Estonia, Germany and Poland, giving fashion a great offering.
Since 2010, Schmidt Takahashi has been experimenting with production and digital media to create new processes in the fabrication stage. The brand mapped the relation of clothing to identity and the result was a line of sustainable clothing.
Using organic cotton, hemp and silk, the Cocccon label, which was started in 2012 in Germany by Indian fashion designer Chandra Prakash Jha and comprises farmers, weavers, spinners from Jharkhand, is an Indo-German venture that is very sustainable and works with non-violent silk.
FROM NEW YORK
‘Resist Persist – Season less’ was the theme of the Brooklyn-based ethical label, Bhoomki by Swati Argade, the brand’s Founder and Creative Director. The collection was minimalist–very clean with silhouettes that were timeless. Black was the favoured colour, but pops of hues appeared on the garments for variety. Fabrics favoured by Swati were stretch twill, naturally dyed organic cotton, khadi, silk noil and crepe dipped in low toxicity dyes and closed-loop cupro.
THE INDIAN OFFERING Goa’s Ninoshka Alvares presented an indigo, shaded, well-finished line in khadi with ikat and Shibori for the shirts, pants, kimono-style jackets, asymmetric skirts, pinafores in dual shades of blue, and a great ikat reversible jacket. The draped Shibori asymmetric midi, smock and dress with origami detailing were eye-catching.
Pune’s Sujata Tokey brought colour on the ramp with the Riwayaat collection created from muga tussar and then splashed with traditional Pipli work in shades of brown and blue. The natural dyes were created from leaves, pomegranates and vegetables with the resist dyeing technique and the garments were embroidered for added glamour.
The glittering Un-Revive collection by Hemang Agrawal was an extreme study in weaving, with silver and gold threads mixed with organically dyed cotton in soft pastels with the Tanchui and
Katarwaan weaves. The patterns that Hemang tried were tartan checks, houndstooth, polka dots and uneven stripes for the beautiful saris, dresses, blouses and skirts.
Bringing the Upasana label to centre stage, Uma Prajapati from Auroville, Tamil Nadu, workeded with khadi and turned it into youthful creations in ivory, red and white. The draped minis, caped creations and layered fusion wear were highlighted with matching scarves.
Working with Kota Doriya for the first time, Karishma Shahani Khan for her label, Ka-Sha, brought the many layers of the anti-fit garmentss together, along with patchwork, 3D embroideryy and reversible options for the fun creations. Thee tasselled scarves and embellishments were also the focal point of the clothes that had zero wastage.
Rajesh Pratap Singh, the Grand Finale designerner who has worked with Tencel™ for two seasons,s, unveiled his all-white fabulous layered line in Tencel™ with discreet embroidery for his debutt collection of ethnic silhouettes inspired by the
Poshak of Rajasthan. The sheer beauty of the fabric was a breathtaking vision.
@Karishma Shahani Khan
@Rajesh Pratap Singh