Apparel - - Fashion Speak -

The Green Fash­ion In­dia Con­fer­ence 2018 played host to some fab­u­lous, out-of-the-box, sus­tain­able fash­ion col­lec­tions and trends. Me­her Castelino re­ports.

‘Sus­tain­abil­ity’ and ‘green fash­ion’– the two words were part of the Green Fash­ion In­dia (GFI) Con­fer­ence 2018 held from Oc­to­ber 5-6, 2018 at Kala Academy, Goa, which was an ini­tia­tive of the Ma­harshi Karve Stree Shik­shan Sam­stha's (MKSSS) School of Fash­ion Tech­nol­ogy (SOFT), Pune. The theme of the GFI Con­fer­ence 2018 was ‘Green Con­nect for So­cial De­sign’, where ex­perts and de­sign­ers came to­gether to share their fash­ion thoughts and cre­ations on

the ramp and dis­cussed the way for­ward for re­cy­cled, up­cy­cled, or­ganic, sus­tain­able fash­ion that will help In­dia and its en­vi­ron­ment.

Sus­tain­abil­ity in fash­ion has been ag­gres­sively pushed around the world and at the GFI Con­fer­ence 2018, it was in the form of a glam­orous fash­ion ex­trav­a­ganza that brought the col­lec­tions of stu­dents as well as In­dian and for­eign brands on the ramp.


From Ger­many, a clus­ter of ex­cit­ing brands made their pres­ence felt, thanks to the ex­pertly cu­rated lines by Berlin-based Philippe Wer­hahn, De­signer and Owner of TingDing, and Strate­gic Ad­vi­sor, Green Fash­ion In­dia.

A clever col­lec­tion of up­cy­cling–where dresses were trans­formed into jumpers and blouses into skirts as well as the other way around–was seen for the TingDing la­bel. The motto of the la­bel is ‘Wast­ing Waste is a Waste of Re­sources’, so dis­carded tex­tiles were turned into qual­ity gar­ments by Philippe Wer­hahn. Here was time­less women’s wear, which was cre­ated from old clothes.

Con­sid­ered the most sus­tain­able fash­ion la­bel in the world, Kol­lat­er­alschaden by Philippe Wer­hahn is for ac­tive peo­ple. Cre­ative de­sign­ing ap­peared for buy­ers who love to dress up in clothes that speak a lan­guage all their own. The com­bi­na­tion of fab­rics and de­signs was un­con­ven­tional and brought the frag­ile with the flimsy.

The Aluc brand worked with up­cy­cling to cre­ate fash­ion that saved re­sources. Since 2010, up­cy­cling is done with raw ma­te­ri­als that are turned into high qual­ity de­signs which em­pha­sise fair and trans­par­ent pro­duc­tion.

Flow­mance show­cased eco-chic fash­ion that had ex­cit­ing, el­e­gant fab­rics which re­vealed the de­signs of flower artists, thus mak­ing the cre­ations ideal for daily and evening wear. Clean shapes were vis­i­ble for the For­mat col­lec­tion that was also re­laxed and el­e­gant, cre­ated from or­ganic and eth­i­cally sourced ma­te­ri­als which were pro­duced in Berlin. The col­lec­tion was sea­son-spe­cific keep­ing to the lat­est trends.

The Linda Sofia la­bel has made ‘turn­ing old into new’ its spe­cial­ity, so the look was play­ful, with a fo­cus on keep­ing the planet green with

the fash­ion col­lec­tion. Tauko was a re­cy­cled brand made from 100 per cent high qual­ity re­cy­cled Fin­nish and Ger­man tex­tiles. The gar­ments were de­signed and crafted in easy Euro­pean sil­hou­ettes in Fin­land, Es­to­nia, Ger­many and Poland, giv­ing fash­ion a great of­fer­ing.

Since 2010, Sch­midt Taka­hashi has been ex­per­i­ment­ing with pro­duc­tion and dig­i­tal me­dia to cre­ate new pro­cesses in the fab­ri­ca­tion stage. The brand mapped the re­la­tion of cloth­ing to iden­tity and the re­sult was a line of sus­tain­able cloth­ing.

Us­ing or­ganic cot­ton, hemp and silk, the Coc­c­con la­bel, which was started in 2012 in Ger­many by In­dian fash­ion de­signer Chan­dra Prakash Jha and com­prises farm­ers, weavers, spin­ners from Jhark­hand, is an Indo-Ger­man ven­ture that is very sus­tain­able and works with non-vi­o­lent silk.


‘Re­sist Per­sist – Sea­son less’ was the theme of the Brook­lyn-based eth­i­cal la­bel, Bhoomki by Swati Ar­gade, the brand’s Founder and Cre­ative Di­rec­tor. The col­lec­tion was min­i­mal­ist–very clean with sil­hou­ettes that were time­less. Black was the favoured colour, but pops of hues ap­peared on the gar­ments for va­ri­ety. Fab­rics favoured by Swati were stretch twill, nat­u­rally dyed or­ganic cot­ton, khadi, silk noil and crepe dipped in low tox­i­c­ity dyes and closed-loop cupro.

THE IN­DIAN OF­FER­ING Goa’s Ni­noshka Al­vares pre­sented an indigo, shaded, well-fin­ished line in khadi with ikat and Shi­bori for the shirts, pants, ki­mono-style jack­ets, asym­met­ric skirts, pinafores in dual shades of blue, and a great ikat rev­ersible jacket. The draped Shi­bori asym­met­ric midi, smock and dress with origami de­tail­ing were eye-catch­ing.

Pune’s Su­jata Tokey brought colour on the ramp with the Ri­wayaat col­lec­tion cre­ated from muga tus­sar and then splashed with tra­di­tional Pi­pli work in shades of brown and blue. The nat­u­ral dyes were cre­ated from leaves, pomegranates and veg­eta­bles with the re­sist dye­ing tech­nique and the gar­ments were em­broi­dered for added glam­our.

The glit­ter­ing Un-Re­vive col­lec­tion by He­mang Agrawal was an ex­treme study in weav­ing, with sil­ver and gold threads mixed with or­gan­i­cally dyed cot­ton in soft pas­tels with the Tanchui and

Katar­waan weaves. The pat­terns that He­mang tried were tar­tan checks, hound­stooth, polka dots and un­even stripes for the beau­ti­ful saris, dresses, blouses and skirts.

Bring­ing the Upasana la­bel to cen­tre stage, Uma Pra­jap­ati from Auroville, Tamil Nadu, workeded with khadi and turned it into youth­ful cre­ations in ivory, red and white. The draped minis, caped cre­ations and lay­ered fu­sion wear were high­lighted with match­ing scarves.

Work­ing with Kota Doriya for the first time, Kar­ishma Sha­hani Khan for her la­bel, Ka-Sha, brought the many lay­ers of the anti-fit gar­mentss to­gether, along with patch­work, 3D em­broi­deryy and rev­ersible op­tions for the fun cre­ations. Thee tas­selled scarves and em­bel­lish­ments were also the fo­cal point of the clothes that had zero wastage.

Ra­jesh Pratap Singh, the Grand Fi­nale de­sign­erner who has worked with Ten­cel™ for two sea­sons,s, un­veiled his all-white fab­u­lous lay­ered line in Ten­cel™ with dis­creet em­broi­dery for his de­butt col­lec­tion of eth­nic sil­hou­ettes in­spired by the

Poshak of Ra­jasthan. The sheer beauty of the fab­ric was a breath­tak­ing vi­sion.

@Ni­noshka Al­vares

@He­mang Agrawal

@Kar­ishma Sha­hani Khan

@Ra­jesh Pratap Singh

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