Himalayan Odyssey
15th edition of the epic RE ride
Is it the terrain, the motorcycle, the vivid blue skies or the daunting mountain ranges in the Himalayas? If you had to ask me what gets me up and about on the thought of returning to hills then I still wouldn’t be able to narrow it down to a couple of reasons alone. Maybe it’s all of the above and an amalgamation of the stress of living in a metro that the feeling of being liberated riding among the high peaks of the Himalayas becomes so inviting.
This was the Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey (RE HO) in its 15th year running. Yes, I had done the exact same route, on the exact same motorcycle (well almost) and with the exact same riding buddy. In all its exactness, I was still brimming with joy and excitement to hit the highway and land in the lap of mother nature, riding a motorcycle. Perfection in every way, and perhaps I couldn’t have it any better.
The first leg of my journey would see me brave through the heat and humidity of early July in Delhi, all the way to Le Corbusier’s beautiful city of Chan-
ONWARD TO SARCHU, THE DAY’S ROUTE TAKES RIDERS THROUGH THE MYSTICAL VALLEY OF JISPA, SOME FUN WATER CROSSINGS AND THEN THE CLIMB TO TAKE ON BARALACHA LA
digarh and then starts the climb towards a little slice of heaven that Leh is. The 15th HO covered a total of 2,200 km in 18 days. I had the fortune to cover half that distance in about five days. The ceremonial flag off was held at India Gate and RE left no stone unturned to ensure that over 60 riders found their way out of the city with the help of the Delhi Traffic Police escorting them. We then entered the long, tedious stretch of NH1 that leads to Chandigarh complete with 45 plus degrees of dehydrating heat and humidity that left us drained of every ounce of energy in our bodies.
The next morning was as bad but a timely start saw us hit the hills and enjoy the cooler temperatures through the day. The riders got along with each other and were getting a sense of how such a huge group of riders progress through a long day of riding. My friend and I meanwhile, were just about getting warmed up for the ride that was yet to come. With a couple
of puncture repairs and no accidents or breakdowns on the way, we greeted the foothills of the Himalayas and settled in Manali for the night. The ride on the following day took us via Gulaba and Rohtang Pass into Keylong. Coloured in various shades of brown, the terrain rapidly transforms from green vegetation to arid mountain sides, with a view of white peaks at a distance, thanks to good snowfall last winter.
What follows next for new riders is the joy of being in the serene surrounds of the most beautiful artwork that nature can paint. What they forget is the very basic function of taking care of one’s own body. As the air becomes clearer, devoid of pollutants and particles, gaining altitude, it also becomes thinner. The combination of low oxygen levels and an intensive physical activity like riding a motorcycle can drain the body of energy faster than one can comprehend. The effects of which can only be experienced once the rider gets off the motorcycle and settles for the night at high altitudes. Onward to Sarchu, the day’s route takes the riders through the mystical valley of Jispa, some fun water crossings around Zing Zing Bar and then the climb to Baralacha La Pass. The beauty of riding a versatile motorcycle like the RE Himalayan
is that the off-the-beaten path is always a change of direction away. While climbing towards Baralacha La, the thin air must’ve gotten the better of my senses as I spotted a trail and simply chose to follow it. The trail opened up to take me below the high pass and enjoy a close up of the snow capped mountains staring back at me. Not just that, I carelessly veered off to where my fancies took me in search of fun that comes from mating off-road terrain and the Himalayan.
The motorcycle comes on its own in such conditions and excels over most motorcycles out there in this price bracket. The fuel injection brought along with the implementation of BS4 norms makes the power delivery better and more consistent.
Most of the Manali-Leh highway is now tarred except for an enjoyable stretch between Sarchu to Pang that’s strewn with rocks and loose sand, also made for a spectacular fall. I survived thanks to proper riding gear and soldiered on for the difficult and cold climb to Taglang La. Climbing down and being greeted by the purple mountains of Leh with tall poplar trees was a welcome sight. The disappointment came from the continuous smell of diesel fumes on the highway and places where I thought I could breathe clean air.
In the years to come, the overflow of tourists and vehicles will rob most of the beauty of travelling on the Manali-Leh highway. I’ve done this route twice now and wouldn’t miss an opportunity to do it again. The thought of clear blue skies and cascading mountains coupled with a motorcycle, that’s all that you really need to answer the call.