Magnificent India

We head to Agra for a date with the ultimate symbol of love

We know what you’re thinking. Yet another story on the Taj Mahal? Hasn’t it already been done to death? Well, yes. But despite countless stories, videos, films and unending coverage on all forms of media imaginable, the Taj Mahal is one of those monuments whose sheer magnificence warrants multiple visits, wouldn’t you agree? With that thought in mind, for the sixth instalment of the Magnificent India series, we strapped ourselves in the Hyundai Creta, hopped on to the Yamuna Expressway and set out towards Agra. The 224km journey takes a little over two hours thanks to the smooth, relatively traffic-free expressway making it one of the most popular day trips for those residing in and around the national capital. The Creta’s efficient climate control system coupled with ventilated seats kept the sweltering heat at bay while the powerful 1.4-litre turbocharged petrol motor and responsive 7-speed DCT made executing quick overtakes a cinch. Plus, its 8-speaker Bose audio system kept our spirits high delivering a fantastic aural experience helping offset the dullness brought forth by the quick but slightly boring journey along the arrow straight Yamuna Expressway.

We caught our first glimpse of Taj Mahal from Mehtab Bagh across the Yamuna built by Babur in 1652 and identified by Shah Jahan as an ideal viewing location to admire Taj Mahal’s majesty. Mehtab Bagh, that translates to moonlight graden, has also often been identified as the site for a Black Taj Mahal that many believe was part of Shah Jahan’s plans before being imprisoned by his son Aurangazeb. There really isn’t

IT IS ONE OF THOSE MONUMENTS WHOSE SHEER MAGNIFICENCE WARRANTS MULTIPLE

VISITS

any evidence to support claims of an unfinished black twin of the Taj Mahal, though. Maybe Shah Jahan did actually have plans to build one, or maybe it’s just one of those myths being fuelled for generations because the idea of a Black Taj Mahal is quite fascinating; we’ll never know.

With current Covid triggered restrictions in place and the fact that we were there on a weekday and with the weather at its hot and humid worst, there were barely any visitors around. Great for social distancing, not so much for street vendors, small business owners and guides who have been hit quite hard by the lack of tourists, especially ones flying in from other countries.

Built between 1632 and 1653, the legends surrounding its construction are ones most of us are all too familiar with. Around 22,000 workers were involved with over a 1,000 elephants engaged in transporting material to

the site sourced from all across the globe, the Taj Mahal is easily one of the most fascinating engineering marvels in existence. The Taj Mahal’s status as a symbol of love, often described as THE symbol of love is, in my humble opinion, debatable considering Shah Jahan commissioned it in the memory of his third wife Mumtaz Mahal, a woman he married partly because his first two wives were unable to bear children, and who died giving birth to his fourteenth child. What isn’t up for debate, though, is the absolute gobsmacking grandeur of the Taj Mahal. We’ve been here multiple times, you’ve seen it physically and on screen on countless occasions and yet, it’s just one of those creations that manage to arrest your attention the same way it did the first time you saw it.

The iconic 35m high dome has been permanently affixed with hooks that have, in the past during times of cross-border conflict, been used to erect scaffolding to protect the Taj Mahal from aerial attacks. A more recent threat to the monument has surfaced in the form of rising air pollution that has negatively impacted the white marble. To help keep

COUNTED AMONGST THE SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD, THE TAJ MAHAL SHOULD UNDOUBTEDLY BE ON YOUR LIST OF MUST-SEE PLACES

pollution levels in check, the government has put in place the Taj Trapezium Zone – a 10,400 square kilometre area around the monument governed by strict emissions standards.

Counted amongst the Seven Wonders of the World and one that attracts more than 8 million visitors annually, the Taj Mahal should undoubtedly be on your list of must-see places. Its proximity to New Delhi makes it easily accessible and with the Yamuna Expressway in place, one can start early morning, spend time marvelling at its magnificence and return to Delhi in time for dinner. As mentioned earlier, the drive can be a bit dull along the arrow straight expressway and one might be tempted to exceed the 100kmph speed limit, but bear in mind there are multiple speed cameras along the way as well as simple time, speed and distance calculations done between tolls so be the better guy and keep that speedo in check to avoid paying hefty fines.

The Magnificent India series continues in the next issue so watch this space for more. And remember to mask up, stay safe and travel responsibly.

1 & 2. Easy to get lost admiring the intricate details of the Taj Mahal’s exterior. 3. It may not appear that tall, the finial atop the dome is around 9m in height. This caricature tiled in the vicinity will help you realise its true height. 4. Reflecting pool along the north-south axis. 5. Minarets lean ever so slightly outwards to keep them from collapsing on to the main structure in case of an earthquake

Statue of Jhalkaribai near the west gate entrance of the Taj Mahal complex (left). Jhalkaribai served in Rani Lakshmibai’s army and helped Lakshmibai escape by assuming her identity during the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The Darwaza-i-Rauza or great gate (below) is quite remarkable in its own right

The ceiling of the arch of the main entrance has been chiselled to mimic the cuts and creases of a diamond, specifically the Kohinoor according to local guides (above). Creta parked right outside Agra Fort majority of which is under the Indian Army’s control currently (below)