Head to Head
The Al Thani collection includes a spectacular range of jewels made in the Indian subcontinent or inspired by the region’s arts to celebrate the delicate art of the jeweller. The broad chronological range of pieces in the collection, which span the early 17th century to the present day, makes the Al Thani collection unique in its field. The collection includes important historic pieces from India, such as the earliest dated Mughal jade owned by the Emperor Jahangir (15691627) as well as a jade-hilted dagger inscribed with the title of the Mughal ruler Shah Jahan. Other examples include a diamond given to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot in 1767 and a jewelled jadehilted dagger once owned by Robert Clive, also known as “Clive of India” who was the Commander-in-Chief of British India. How are contemporary artists like JAR (Paris) and Mumbai-based Bhagat blending tradition with modern influences? Though neither JAR or Bhagat use traditional Indian techniques, both draw on motifs from the artistic part of the subcontinent, recreating them in their own distinctive contemporary idiom. One jewel by JAR, for instance, is inspired by Mughal architecture. The overall form echoes the recessed arches of Mughal monuments, such as those seen on the Taj Mahal built during the reign of the emperor Shah Jahan. The delicate openwork tracery on the back derives from the openwork screens or jalis of Indian palaces.
Bhagat also borrows from imperial Mughal architecture in a platinum brooch set with diamonds and pearls in a form directly inspired by a motif from a royal Mughal tomb in Agra completed in 1628. The simple, clear outlines of Bhagat’s jewellery designs recall those of 19th-century Rajasthan jewellery drawings. They are in complete and deliberate contrast to the heavy gold gem-encrusted jewellery of traditional India.
The simple, clear outlines of Bhagat’s jewellery designs recall those of 19thcentury Rajasthan jewellery drawings
How is Indian contemporary art being perceived internationally? In the field of jewellery, unlike textiles, no contemporary designer has had an international profile, until relatively recently. Bhagat is generally acknowledges as a unique figure, whose work is becoming increasingly sought after outside India.