Business Standard

Scent of gender neutrality

Cator Sparks with eight great eaux that will work for a man or a woman

- ©Bloomberg

The old “rule” of citrus scents for summer and woody ones for winter is vanishing. In fact, even the traditiona­l cologne-perfume divide is changing, with more high-end fragrances being made to appeal not only for every season but also every sex. Women are not just purchasing products for their male partners, says Thé o Spilka, global vice president of Fir me ni ch Internatio­nal, the largest fragrance manufactur­er in the world ,“50 percent of people purchasing those products are wearing them on themselves as well .” As a result, “It’s not unusual for us to take an approach to men’ s fragrance that will seem very attractive to women,” he continues. These days, this means that ingredient­s offering freshness( vet iv er, pat chou li ), aromatic (mint, rosemary, thyme), and woody (amber, sandalwood) elements are tr ending. Bonus points if they smell expensive, too. Below are eight incredible scents, from popular new releases to en during classics, that are very much of the now.

MENTHA RELIGIOSA, BY ROOS & ROOS

Refreshing mint meets musky incense and cedarwood. “This new take on Orientals, with a warm vanilla direction, was created by a mother, Chantal, who is a well-respected nose, and her musician daughter, Alexandra, in France,” says Spilka. $221 for 3.4 oz.

BOSS BOTTLED TONIC, BY HUGO BOSS

Although marketed to men, this 2018 Fragrance Foundation Finalist has fruity top notes (bitter orange, lemon, and apple) that work for anyone. $86 for 3.4 oz.

PINUS, BY ODUR

Pronounced PINE-us, grapefruit and bergamot with Swiss stone pine evoke camping on a dewy morning. $241 for 2.5 oz.

AEDES DE VENUSTAS, BY L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR

Leather, balsam, iris, and strawflowe­r provide plenty of personalit­y without being overpoweri­ng. Robert Gerstner, coowner of the treasured Manhattan fragrance shop for which this was created, calls it “a very sexy and soft, spicy scent.” $185 for 3.4 oz.

GREY VETIVER, BY TOM FORD

An earthy, clean-smelling classic, this cologne embodies today’s tastes. “It came out in 2009,” says Spilka, but “the citrus constructi­on and the vetiver freshness is absolutely key to the men’s market.” $166 for 3.4 oz.

HOLY_WOOD

A patchouli-esque perfume derived from fermented sugar cane is spiced with pepper and sweetened with rose. (Fun fact: Patchouli was a symbol of luxury in Victorian England, when it was used to deter moths in textiles shipped from India.) $195 for 3.4 oz.

BRIONI

Intense, original, and surprising­ly unisex (given its maker), it combines Sicilian lemon, magnolia, cedarwood, and violet. $275 for 2.5 oz.

L’EAU NEUVE

Created in 1968, this “classic European fragrance with a clean opening and spicy background,” according to Roberts, is playful and vivacious, combining citrus with scents of the Mediterran­ean scrub, such as thyme and sage. Perfect for a gender revolution. $130 for 2.5 oz.

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