DINING AND DRINKING
CAFé PUSHKIN
Russian food might not have the world’s best reputation but a visit to Café Pushkin, a short walk from Red Square, is enough to make anyone reconsider their opinions. One of Moscow’s oldest restaurants, it serves recipes that date back to the Tsarist period, such as black caviar and wild mushroom soup. Mains
₹ 1500-`3000. Tverskaya Bulvar 26a; tel +7 495 739 0033; cafe-pushkin.ru
GENAZVALE
Located on the Black Sea coast, tiny Georgia boasts some of the most popular dishes in the former Soviet Union, from spicy beans to hot cheese pastries. Find out why at Genazvale, a vast yet somehow cosy restaurant just off the Old Arbat. Mains ₹ 1000-`2000. Novy Arbat 11; tel +7 495 697 9453; restoran-genatsvale.ru
MARI VANNA
For home cooking in a domestic setting, try Mari Vanna. The interior is designed to resemble a typical Moscow apartment, with dishes including filling borsch and Russian dumplings. There is no sign outside, so press the bell for No 10 for entry. It’s in a side street not far from the central Tverskaya street. Mains ₹ 1000-`2000. Spiridonoyevsky Pereulok 10a; tel +7 495 650 6500;
marivanna.ru/msk
JAGANNATH
One of the city’s few vegetarian restaurants, friendly Jagannath is a short walk from the Kremlin and comprises a cheap café and a more upmarket restaurant. Mains ₹ 1000-`1500. Ulitsa Kuznetsky Most 11; tel +7 495 628 3580; jagannath.ru/jagannath-1
JEAN-JACQUES
A firm favourite among young opposition-minded Russians, JeanJacques enjoys legendary status in Moscow. A good selection of imported wines and beers fuel noisy debates. Beer from 230R (`400), bottles of wine from 1,000R (`1700). Nikitsky Bulvar 12 (just off the Old Arbat); tel +7 495 690 3886;
jan-jak.com