Version 2.0
Indian cuisine adapts to the global palate, discovers Akanksha Maker
Every state in India boasts of culinary specialities that are regarded as hallmarks of its culture and history. Be it the robust flavours of Chettinand in the South to the intense aromas of the Tandoor in the North, the versatility of Indian food is tremendous. Spices or masalas are the essence of such preparations and across all regions — of which cloves, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, chillies, bay-leaves, carom seeds, cumin and turmeric are most common.
Indian cuisine traces back almost 5000 years to the Harappan era when wheat, lentils and vegetables were consumed by the population. These essentials form the elements of a balanced Indian meal, even today. Step out of India and you predominantly find eateries that mimic Indian food as depicted in popular culture. Curry houses all over the globe boast of menus that are considered too hot for Western palates. The line between masala and chilli is often blurred and the presumption that Indian food is “very spicy” prevails.
This scenario, however, began to change a few years ago when some visionary entrepreneurs decided to give Indian food a face-lift. When Gaggan Anand first moved from Kolkata to Bangkok seven years ago, he had an ambition — to change the face of Indian cuisine. His eponymous restaurant now ranks 1st on the list of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. “It took me three years to convince people. The idea was to take the original to higher grounds and present it in a new format,” says Anand as he passionately speaks about his distinctive menu. Finding pani puri on the streets of India is no surprise, but a white chocolate pani puri (a white chocolate shell filled with spicy coriander water and topped with edible silver foil) can only be found at Bangkok’s Ploenchit Road at Gaggan’s restaurant. He calls it progressive Indian cuisine, a term that has become a phenomenon in the past few years.
“A phenomenon lasts, a fad doesn’t, and progressive Indian cuisine is here to stay,” states Zorawar Kalra, MD of Massive Restaurants Pvt. Ltd., who introduced Masala Library, a restaurant that prides itself with this avant-garde format. “At Masala Library, traditional Indian food has been modernised to meet global standards and taken to the next-level; this is its version 2.0,” explains Kalra. A restaurant that is buzzing irrespective of time and day with expats, tourists and locals, this concept found its place in the heart of Mumbai’s Bandra Kurla Complex. I was amused to learn that along with food, the restaurant also serves progressive Indian cuisine inspired cocktails. Their signature Star Anise Martini is a concoction of the spice and your choice of alcohol topped with foam crafted through the science of molecular gastronomy.
Perhaps a few years ago, the concept of intermingling molecular gastronomy with Indian food seemed implausible. Anand and Kalra can be credited for changing this scenario. Much of this science revolves around altering textures and presenting recognisable flavours in unique presentations, and that’s precisely what’s attempted with progressive Indian cuisine as well. For instance, Gaggan’s take on the classic frozen Indian dessert Kulfi, is nitro-flambeed reduced milk with sun-dried figs, served with freeze-dried figs. A meal at Masala Library will also alter your perception on how palate cleansers can successfully be adapted into Indian flavours. The mishti doi sorbet is the smoothened flash-frozen version of the Bengali yogurt presented with strawberry coulis and served in-between courses. Most of the dishes on their menus are crafted through molecular techniques such as powdered-foods and foams.
The fundamental focus of this concept is to maintain and uplift the authenticity of the food not only through scientific methods but also befitting
Gaggan, Bangkok Address: 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini; tel: +66 (02) 652 1700
Masala Library, Mumbai Address: First International Financial Centre, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East;
tel: +91 (022) 6642 4142 Indian Accent, Delhi Address: 77 Friends Colony West, The Manor Hotel; tel: +91 (011) 43235151