Christopher Columbus

(1451-1506) tried to find a short cut to the Spice Islands of Indonesia, where treasures like nutmeg, mace and clove were to be found. He was unsuccessful, but did bring back vanilla from his travels. The pursuit of spices led to many sea routes being established from the Middle Ages onwards, creating trading networks that introduced cultures to one another and are still in force today. It is thought Columbus confused the chilli pepper with the black pepper he had hoped to find in India, and it was the Portuguese who first spread the pungent spice globally from its home in South America 500 years ago. They went on to cultivate it across the world. Today, chilli peppers play an integral role in many global cuisines especially Thai and Indian cuisines. The inspiration of explorers, the spark of trade wars and the impetus for establishing empires like the Dutch East Indies, the story of spices drips with blood, sweat and tears. Today, however, those tears are more likely to be shed for joy at the taste of a sublime dish. Chefs are writing a new chapter in the history of spices, blending the quirks and surprises of nouvelle cuisine with time-honoured herb mixes, rubs and marinades. At Indique in Washington D.C., co-owner and chef K.N.Vinod deploys tamarind and cumin in margaritas, and cardamom and coconut in martinis.“There is much more awareness of Indian spices in the US today as compared to when I first arrived here 30 years ago, ” he said. Marriott Chakan’s executive chef Girish Kumar points to dishes like spiced chocolates, star anise chocolate mousse and black pepper panna cotta with balsamic strawberries as examples of innovations in the use of spices. “Looking at the depth of our subconscious food habits and history, spices have had a huge impact on our palates and shaped the way we experience a dish,” said renowned chef Manish Mehrotra, who heads the kitchens at Indian Accent in New Delhi, and Oriental Octopus in New Delhi and Lavasa.“We tune each spice differently according to its individuality, subtleness, depth and intensity of dishes prospering in today’s cuisines, and those yet to come. Their importance will only increase,” he added. Vinod said his past three decades in the US had been a fascinating journey sharing his stories of growing up with spices and how his mother and grandmother used them as medicine in addition to cooking. With modern cuisines mixing with time-honoured traditions, the spice story is set to continue.