Exploring the pristine eastern coast of Sri Lanka
The pristine eastern coast of Sri Lanka and the charming hill town of Kandy are perfect for a long weekend getaway
Most people associate a vacation in Sri Lanka with the bustling city of Colombo or the trendy beach villas around Galle. Few have gone beyond the beaten path of Sri Lanka’s tourist hotspots, to explore its lesser known regions. A case in point is the country’s idyllic eastern coast — though surfers have been travelling to Arugam Bay for a while now — and its quaint towns like Pasikudah and Batticaloa. This summer, I decide to eschew the capital city and cut across the island, by road, towards Pasikudah. Leaving Colombo airport behind me, we drive inland towards the eastern coast. The six-hour journey from Colombo to Pasikudah, certainly feels long, especially after a night flight in from India, but it is undeniably picturesque. All along, you drive past charming Sri Lankan villages, stunning forest roads and hill country. Don’t forget to stop at one of the wayside restaurants for a cup of Ceylon tea and local fruit or snacks.
WELCOME TO PASIKUDAH
Six hours later, as we approach Pasikudah, we notice the store and street signs change from Sinhalese to Tamil, and I see posters of Tamil cinema pasted on walls. This part of the eastern coast is the Tamil-speaking part of the country. As I drive through Pasikudah — I spot the sea in the distance — I notice a wave of gentrification in recent times. Signboards directing tourists towards the luxury hotels that line the palm-fringed coast of the sleepy town. I interact with my driver, Ahmed, a local, who tells me that this region has opened up to tourism no more than ten years ago. When the civil war ended in 2009, Pasikudah was finally accessible to tourists, and luxury hotels started popping up — a new destination emerged.
I check in at the plush Amaya Beach Resort for my two-night stay by the beach. This is one of the most prestigious addresses on the stretch, discreetly tucked away at the far end of the white sand beach. Amaya Beach Resort is everything that you would expect of a Sri Lankan resort — great design, minimalist interiors, lots of natural light, plenty of art and an overall refined vibe. I settle into my suite, which is like an apartment in itself, with a beautiful grassy private terrace accessed from the living room and bedroom. After an afternoon spent by the large swimming pool, we decide to head to the beach — the hotel opens straight out onto the beach. The beach is one of the best on the island, with crystal blue water and clean sand. After sunset I opt for a beachside barbeque, under the stars, where the hotel’s team do a special set-up with a table in the sand, under a canopy.
When the civil war ended in 2009, Pasikudah was finally accessible to tourists, and luxury hotels started popping-up —a new destination emerged
EXPLORING THE REGION
The next morning, we wake up to a hearty breakfast of hoppers, string hoppers and a variety of curries. (Sri Lankans eat curry for breakfast). It is my day of exploring the coastal road around Pasikudah. The historic town of Batticaloa is a quick 40-minute
drive from Amaya Beach. As I drive along the breathtaking coastal road, all the way up to Batticaloa, my driver/guide points out to me certain pockets that were badly affected by the three-decade-long civil war, but which have now bounced back to normal. Batticaloa is the major city in this province but still has a very sleepy, slow pace. The best way to explore Batticaloa is to drive around its leafy avenues. Take some time to walk around the historic Batticaloa Fort, dating back to the 1600s, now housing all sorts of government offices. Other highlights of Batticaloa include its old lighthouse and local markets. The city is well-preserved and is a nice mix of colonial, Hindu and Muslim cultures. I drive back to Amaya Beach by evening to enjoy another breezy evening on
the beach, and sundowners at the hotel’s Honey Beach Club, a quick dash to the spa for an evening massage before a dinner by the pool.
INTO THE HILLS
The next morning — after yet another breakfast of hoppers and curry — I set out towards Kandy, the cultural heart of Sri Lanka. Kandy is located at the very centre of the country and the road from Pasikudah to Kandy (about 3.5 hours) cuts through the most magnificent mountain ranges and national parks. One of the most picturesque parts of the drive is the 18 Bend Road, which, as its name suggests, comprises 18 hairpin bends. After driving through idyllic hill towns, I finally approach the urban bustle of Kandy. As we pass through Kandy, I am impressed at the very unique vibe that this city has. Situated around the beautiful lake, this major Sri Lankan city still has the vibe of a gently-paced hill station. Leaving the main city behind me, I drive towards Heeressagala, a posh neighbourhood in the hills, with serpentine, steep roads. I check in at Amaya Hills, a gorgeous hill resort set in lush greenery, in suburban Kandy. I check into my suite, which features a traditional Sinhalese design, inspired by the royal Kandy kingdoms of yore. The living room and bedroom both offer sweeping views of the surrounding Kandy Hills, for as far as the eye can see.
Later that afternoon, I head to the panoramic terrace of Amaya Hills, where I indulge in a quintessential Sri Lankan experience — high tea. Given that tea is such an intrinsic part of daily life in this country, it is served with great enthusiasm. We sit on the terrace and enjoy a spot of Ceylon tea, a selection of scones as well as local savouries, looking out at the cloud cover below us. Amaya Hills is spread across several acres of thick forest and there are dedicated walking trails for you to enjoy an evening (or sunrise) trek.
Later that evening, I opt for a rejuvenating Ayurvedic massage at the spa, followed by a traditional Sri Lankan dinner.
The next morning, I wake up to a misty morning, so typical of this part of the world. In a while, the clouds (below us), will clear out, I am told, and the sun will be out soon. It’s time for me to explore Kandy. A fifteen-minute drive downhill, and I am at the Kandy lakeside, which makes for a beautiful stroll around the lake. This area is best enjoyed in the evening as it is extremely pleasant. Kandy is known for its other noteworthy monuments like the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya. After sightseeing, I head towards the main Kandy market, where there are a couple of cute sidewalk cafes to sit down at and watch daily life go by.
Soon after, I head back up towards the hills, and settle for some tea, once again on
Kandy is known for its noteworthy monuments like the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya
the terrace of Amaya Hills. It is my last night in Sri Lanka and I enjoy a quiet evening in my room, overlooking the hills, with room service dinner and a nice book for company.
Tomorrow morning, I do a three-hour drive to Colombo, for my flight back out to India.