Mystical Jordan
BHAVEN JANI
This nation houses the site of Jesus Christ’s baptism, has more than a passing reference to Judaism, is currently a Muslim kingdom, abounds in natural and man-made wonders, is scattered with exotic landscapes that feel otherworldly, and also has a modern sea port. I am already excited as I descend into Amman. The overnight shift from the belligerent streets of Delhi to the repose of Amman is a pleasant welcome.
We are headed for Jarash, a northern town hugely popular for its Roman ruins. Three arched gates, colonnaded streets with markets, huge temples on hilltops and open theaters for public entertainment, all typical of Roman towns, is extremely well preserved in-spite of two earthquakes in the last millennium. The massive pillars, wide plazas and the vastness of the ruins provide hints of an extremely successful civilisation having settled here. My guide points out marks that got carved in the stones on the colonnaded street, through incessant movement of chariots.
Back in Amman by late afternoon, we have enough time to catch up on the Citadel. It provides full evidence of Roman, Byzantine and Islamic association with this nation. To me, the Citadel also represents a romantic getaway amidst history, with beautiful views of the city and great sunsets.
Navigating its streets, next morning we set out for Bethany, on the banks of River Jordan, where Jesus Christ was baptised by John the baptist. It is mesmerising to stand here knowing the Lord stood at the very same place.
Time to check in at the Dead Sea Spa. The lowest point on land, saltiest water on earth, the largest natural spa, various sobriquets adorn Dead Sea. Try all your might to sink in it, and you wont. Apply a generous dollop of its black mud over your body and feel your skin turn smooth. Beware of the water getting into your eyes though, it burns like fire. And resist the urge to taste the water, your stomach will churn with gross sensations.
If the Dead Sea hasn’t got our hearts racing, Petra definitely has. And arrival at Taybet Zaman, a hotel with a village-like setting, only adds to the thrill. Petra is by far the most visited destination in Jordan. And 2012 is the two-hundredth year of its rediscovery. Keen on seeing Petra by night I manage to sneak in moments before the entry closes. In pitch darkness, a series of candles leads visitors along the Siq to Al Khazneh or the Treasury. All your fantasies fall short when you emerge from the narrow slice of the Siq to catch the first glimpse of the Treasury. Musicians play soulful music to sway visitors in a trance. And then a local guide explains the background of Petra and how the town was carved out from rock 2000 years ago.
The next adventure is equally beckoning. A 4x4 drive through the stunning landscape of Wadi Rum. Aeons ago, this desert lay beneath the sea. Our final stop is Aqaba on the Red Sea. It multi-tasks as a trading port, beach resort and a cosmopolitan city. Next morning and I go snorkeling. After shrugging off the initial chill, I am swimming in the waters where four countries meet —Jordan, Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia. What a unique point the Gulf of Aqaba is! The writer is a travel
enthusiast