Discovering forgotten culinary gems

CHEF REJIMON, WHO TRAVELLED ACROSS KERALA TO HUNT FOR TRADITIONAL AND FORGOTTEN RECIPES, NARRATES HIS EXPERIENCES

At our restaurant that focuses on Kerala cuisine, we are forever on the lookout for innovative dishes. It was two years ago that we had this brainwave of someone travelling across the state to dig out forgotten culinary gems. The idea was to collect these dishes, give it our own twist and present it through a food fest called ‘Culinary Yathra’.

Homemakers with an extraordinary flair for cooking and popular small eateries suggested by friends were our targets. My journey was not done at a stretch. I would pack up one day, visit one region, sometimes a home in a village in Kollam, and return to resume my duties. The next time maybe in Kottayam or a restaurant tucked away in the heart of Kannur. I would learn about the dish, its history and importance, watch it being prepared, get the recipe and head back to my kitchen to test it.

There were many unforgettable experiences. Like this time when I landed up at Chandran Pillai’s family-run hotel in Thiruvananthapuram. I was there at the crack of dawn. It’s a tiny place, they do not use a gas stove but cook entirely on the kiln. Hugely popular in the area, the crowd starts building up from 11 am. I wore a mundu (dhoti) in order to merge with the crowd. The fun began when the chief supplier walked in and took me to be a new staff and started ordering me around. I complied and went along till the crowd started thinning. He was aghast when I finally told him that I was leaving and even reminded me that the duty was till seven in the evening! Last year, I travelled from the North to the South of Kerala and this year I started from the South and travelled up. Kozhi Muzamman, Meen

Thappuvekkal and Aattirachi Vendaka are three of the most interesting dishes that I came across during these travels.

Kozhi Muzamman, prepared with a full chicken, was originally called Kozhi Muzhuvan which means a full chicken. This is a grand celebratory dish prepared by the motherin-law to welcome the puyyapla (bridegroom) on his first visit to the bride’s home. The chicken is stuffed with masalas, fried onion, a boiled egg and served in thick gravy. I got this recipe from Sabhitha Arif from Tirur, Malappuram.

Aattirachi Vendaka is a typical Thrissur dish which reflects the region’s penchant for mixing vegetables with non-vegetarian curries. It is a dish that north Indians love in our restaurant and I got it from Laly Mookan in Thrissur. A brilliant dish with soft cooked mutton pieces and ladies finger, this is traditionally served on the wedding eve.

Meen Thappuvekkal is an ancient dish from Kannur and nearly extinct as no one takes the pain to cook it anymore. I learnt the recipe and techniques from Thesneem Azeez, Perinthalmanna.