ONE WITH NATURE
With its meditative monasteries, verdant tea estates, lush rhododendron groves, and the title of ‘the first ever organic state’, Sikkim is eternally surreal. Here’s a window to this mountain kingdom.
All great things come in small packages, they say. Bordered by Bhutan and Tibet, Sikkim is this strong preserve of tradition, beliefs, and spiritual practices. Despite being one of the smallest states of India, Sikkim is a treasure trove of visual potpourri. The unique terrain with rhododendron-clad mountain valleys, guzzling froth-filled streams and waterfalls, an abundance of unique flora and fauna, and the sobriquet of ‘India’s only Organic State’ makes it a mecca for nature lovers.
Iwoke up to scenes of mist hanging like a veil over the tea gardens and rolling off the mountain tops, to the euphony of intermittent raindrops on the thick vegetation, and to the distant chatter of the tea workers. This is Tarku, a small village, which hides discreetly amidst a vast expanse of organic tea plantation. Just off the GangtokRavangla state highway, it is mostly inhabited by the plantation workers. “The tea estate takes good care of us. At least one member of each family is employed with the company,” said Devika, a proud mother of two delightful kids, as I sat in her small cosy home sipping a fresh cup of black tea, watching the resplendently green expanse of tea plantations. The fresh aroma was like nothing I had ever sensed before. I was invited for breakfast while loitering aimlessly through the soft meandering paths of the tea plantation. People here are like their organic produce—true to nature, heartwarming and authentic. The Government-owned Cherry Resort is the only accommodation here. On the manager’s recommendation, I visited the Temi Tea Factory nearby. For a paltry fee, the supervisor gave a brief tour of the tea manufacturing process starting from plucking, withering, rolling, fermentation, firing, sorting and finally, packing of different types of tea—green, black, and white.
The Sikkim Government, headed by Chief Minister Pawan Chamling, in 2003, declared its mission of making the state entirely organic. The efforts started by initially targeting the crops of ginger, large cardamom, buckwheat and turmeric. Pilot projects continued till 2010 with more crops being cultivated under the organic umbrella. Once the Government became sure of the sustainability, it set up the Sikkim Organic Mission (SOM) in 2010. It has since spent close to `70 crore for land certifications, awareness, farmer training, organic inputs and market linkage. Some of the major crops bearing the organic seal are cardamom, millets, ginger, buckwheat, turmeric, cauliflower, beans, oranges and paddy maize. Recently, it topped 51 nominations across 25 countries in the globe to receive the ‘UN Food and Agriculture Future Policy Gold Award’, making it the World’s First Organic State.
Tracing the organic trail along with sprawling monasteries, pristine lakes, gushing waterfalls and endless expanse of sloping tea gardens is not something you would accomplish in a single trip to Sikkim. Like Buddhism, which believes we have many lifetimes and is a prominent religion in the region, you will return to Sikkim another time, this birth or the other.
As per Hindu religion, people dream of covering all the four dhams of India once in their lifetime—Ramanathaswamy Temple in Rameswaram, Jagannath Temple in Puri, Badrinath Temple in Uttarakhand, and Dwarakadheesh Temple in Dwarka. Devotees accomplishing this feat are considered blessed, and are believed to be exonerated from their sins. Namchi, in South Sikkim, is one such incredible place, where stunning replicas of all the four dhams are built in a phenomenal complex and only a day’s trip from state capital of Gangtok. Spread over an overwhelming area of 29 hectare on the top of Solophok Hill, it earns the distinction of being the most extraordinary pilgrimage centre in the country. Adorned by a 33 metre-high Shiva statue at the summit, the place is a riot of colours. The Char Dhaam restaurant just outside the premise provides delectable vegetarian dishes.
Another imposing structure in Namchi is the statue of Guru Padmasambhava on Samdruptse Hill. Painted in glittering copper, the revered guru sits on lotus plinth. I stood in awe of the 45 metretall statue. The fading light of the golden sun on the structure provided a spectacular glimmer. The guru’s ivory white eyes seemed to twinkle in the crimson hue. I was just waiting for it to blink. Also known as Guru Riponche, he is considered
to be the patron saint of the state and the place is thus of utmost religious importance for the Sikkimese. Situated at almost 7,000 feet above sea level, it provides sweeping views of the adjoining mountains and valleys.
Both the Shiva statue at Char Dhaam and the Guru’s structure can be seen from many places in Sikkim and sometimes, even from Darjeeling. “It feels good to know my family and I are overlooked by the Gods. I feel safer,” says Morung, while manoeuvring the hairpin bends like a seasoned driver. Maybe that’s why the state builds all famous figurines and statues at the zenith. Based on his recommendation, I also visited the beautiful Shirdi Sai Temple, the Namchi Rock Garden, and the ancient Ngadak Monastery.
In north Sikkim, my new driver was Jisman Limboo. At 48, his smile was reminiscent of a six-year-old. He is the one who introduced me to tongba—a unique alcoholic drink made from organically-produced finger millets (ragi) endemic to North Sikkim and parts of Nepal. It is remarkably unusual in so many ways and is fermented anywhere between a week to a month. It tastes the best when served in a bamboo jug coupled with a bamboo straw. It just needs hot water and a rest of five minutes before you can have your first sip. Refilling your drink means addition of more hot water. You can do it at least three to four times before it becomes diluted. It
The semi-frozen lake is a painter’s palette, obsessed with the colours of white and blue, with reflections of clouds and the towering mountains.
tastes like a mild, sweeter version of red wine, sans the rotten grape smell.
The family-run hotel in Lachung, Hotel Seasons House, sits in the lap of nature with the towering Himalayas as the backdrop, its courtyard overlooking the beautiful Lachung Village amidst rock pinnacled walls and the Lachung Tsu river snaking through the valley. The road up the mountain ends here. Apart from the magnificent vista and the location, what sets it apart is the organic vegetarian kitchen. The food is prepared by the same people who manage the property and all the vegetables are sourced from their homegrown organic farms below the hill slopes. For a vegetarian like me, it was ambrosia. The humble bhindi fry tasted royal, the grounded potato curry gave a spicy high, and the meek spinach soup sang a tune of its own. “It is unlike any vegetarian dishes I have ever eaten,” said Prasun, a Bengali and a staunch non-vegetarian with whom I was sharing the dinner table. I couldn’t agree more.
Sharing the gushing Lachung Tsu river is the Yumthang Valley at 11,800 feet—a spectacular grazing pasture with an undulating topography. Walk till the riverbed to see the sparkling clean water and uniformly-shaped pebbles in various sizes, ride a caparisoned Yak, and buy traditional woollens, gloves, hats, local attire and souvenirs from the small Yumthang Market.
Further up the road, some 24 km away from Yumthang Valley, is the last civilian point. The road ends here, and thus, the name Zero Point. At an altitude of more than 15,000 feet, this place is covered with snow almost yearlong. The surrounding vista is mind-boggling. You find large sheets of snow by the side of the road, rare vegetation of thick shrubs and plants, huge black boulders in sharp contrast to the brilliant white snow, and stunning icicles dangling from the crevices and ridges of the mountain face.
The village of Thangu is the only civilian settlement on the way to the spectacular Gurudongmar Lake from Lachen. The weather at the high-altitude lake can be gauged from this small village at 13,000 feet. Inclement weather here is generally a warning for the roads ahead, and drivers prefer to wait for the climate to become better before proceeding. Thangu has some traditional local shops where you can share a cup of tea, coffee, Maggi, or momo, sitting around an angithi with the locals in their kitchen. It is a humbling experience to converse with them and learn the various hardships they encounter in these unfriendly terrains.
The vegetation keeps changing as one drives to Gurudongmar from Thangu. The dirt and gravel roads pass through several army camps. As the destination comes near, the road gets rougher and narrower, the mountains change their garb and the rivers freeze. The trees become shorter and the plants disappear giving way to a cold dessert similar to Leh and Ladakh. Named after the famous Guru Padmasambhava, the breathtaking lake at 17,100 feet and spread across 290 acres is surrounded by snow-covered mountains all year round. The semi-frozen surface of the lake is like a painter’s palette, obsessed with the colours of white and blue, with ever-changing reflections of the clouds and the towering mountains.You would need at least a week to explore the high-altitude villages of Lachen and Lachung.
“We are trying to break even soon. We are receiving Government support with respect to training and exposure visits,” said Gurung while pointing towards a large grove of cardamom. He has leased a few acres of land to augment his earnings by riding on the organic wave. Cardamom is one of the coveted spices in India and Sikkim is its largest producer and exporter. The villages of Ranka and Budang in East Sikkim boast of having several such organic farms. The Sikkim Government true to its mission of organic sustainability, provides a direct selling platform to organic farmers. An exclusive organic market called Kishan Bazaar has opened in 2018 at Lal Bazar in Gangtok that is currently offering a space for up to 200 farmers. The farmers do not require
any license and are not levied with any kind of taxes. The government, apart from expanding the existing facility, is expected to open several such market complexes across the state for organic farmers. Spinach, red chilli, ginger, cauliflower, beans, orange, and cardamom are some of the popular organic products here.
Located 23 km from Gangtok, Rumtek is the largest monastery in Sikkim and is the seat of the Karmapa Lama—the third highest monk in Tibetan Buddhism. Surrounded by monks’ quarters, the architectural design of the four-storied building looks like the replica of the original Kagyu headquarters in Tibet. The spacious stone courtyard in the middle serves for the ritualistic Lama dances, on specific spiritual occasions, as per the Tibetan Buddhist calendar. Other notable places of interest in Gangtok are the 70 feet-high Banjhakri Falls, the haunted history of Do Drul Chorten, the mystic Enchey Monastery, and the beautiful temples of Ganesh Tok and Hanuman Tok.
Situated at an altitude of more than 12,000 feet in East Sikkim, Tsangu Lake is 35 km from Gangtok. The glacial lake is walled by steep snow-covered mountains. Further up the road, an additional hour journey will get you to Nathula Pass (border with China) at a height of 14,140 feet—the offshoot of the ancient Silk Road connecting Sikkim to China’s Tibet (autonomous region). Perennially covered with snow, it is heavily manned by the army on both sides. A slight detour took me to the unique Baba Mandir. Built in the memory of late Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, it is considered sacred by the Indian Army. The soldier’s belongings are still kept inside the temple, and the locals and army believe that his ghost resides there and protects the surroundings. All the three places can be checked as a one-day excursion from Gangtok.
“I wasn’t sure of large cardamom anymore. It is prone to pests and risks are higher. I learnt about baby corn cultivation at the VLW (Village Level Worker) Centre of the Department of Agriculture and thought to try it out,” said Jisman, a local farmer from Bermiok village in West Sikkim. Following practices he learnt in the meeting, and with the help of organic inputs from the Agriculture Department, Bhutia had a bumper harvest and made substantial profits in just four months. “It’s my new-found love,” he signed off with a grin. An inconspicuous sleepy village being the pioneer in the cultivation of organic baby corn is an ode to persistent and earnest efforts of the Sikkim Government towards organic farming.
Rinchenpong is a small town in West Sikkim. Almost all the properties here have their own organic farms and visitors are encouraged to learn about the farming practices. The quaint hamlet is an ideal place to see the peaks of Kanchenjunga and Pandim, and offers several trekking routes through the forests of pine, magnolia, rhododendrons and chestnut.
I had read and heard a lot about the 300-yearold Pemyangtse Monastery in Pelling, West Sikkim. Set atop a hill at 6,000 feet, it is surrounded by moist temperate oak forests. The top floor has religious idols, paintings and several other antiques. It has a beautiful structure at the centre—an intricately designed seven-tiered wooden sculpture, carved and painted by Dungzin Rinpoche, a former abbot of Pemyangtse. He built this over a period of five years to portray the celestial abode of Guru Rinpoche, known as ‘Sanghthokpalri’. It has beautiful scenes of angels, rainbows, Buddhist and Bodhisattva idols. Other notable places to visit around Pelling are the emerald green Khecheopalri Lake, the gushing 300 feet-high Kanchenjunga Waterfall, and the second highest suspension bridge of Sikkim called Singshore.
Pelling is a five hour-drive from Gangtok and needs at least a three-day itinerary. The states’ mix of vibrant culture, nature and hospitality is a rich tapestry woven by welcoming arms. Be it the stunning view of the third largest mountain peak of the world (Mt Kanchenjunga) from almost all parts of the region, the monumental structures of Char Dham in Namchi, the mysterious wetland of Khecheopalri Lake in the west, the resplendently green organic Temi Tea gardens in the south, or the chic urban atmosphere of Gangtok in the east, it is easy to fall in love with this clean, green, all organic state.