AURANGABAD CITY OF BYGONES
If ancient caves, relics and legends fascinate your old soul, you will certainly find your way to Aurangabad. Quite aloof from its rather modern sister cities like Mumbai and Pune, Aurangabad in Maharashtra still seems to be breathing in the Mughal era when—after laying low through most of the medieval history—the city saw a brief glory back in the late 17th century. It was in 1653, under the reign of Aurangzeb, that the Mughal emperor decided to change its name from Fatehnagar, crowned it as the capital, and soon many fascinating monuments were raised to put the city in the spotlight.
Even today, Aurangabad stays soaked in an old-world charm. Old-stone buildings with engraved walls, yawning caves with sculptures in ruins, fortified gates scattered throughout to give it the title of ‘the city of gates’—there are countless reminders of bygone times.
If you can do with a little less grandeur than Taj Mahal, start with Bibi-qa-
Maqbara, an attempted replica of the former, built by Aurangzeb’s son Azam Khan in the memory of his mother Rabia-ud-Daurani. The 17th-century marble mausoleum, with its four minarets flanking the central dome, sprawling lawns and Deccan hills in the backdrop, bears a striking likeness to Agra’s famous symbol of love.
Perched atop a craggy ridge known as Devagiri, is the once-impregnable fort of Daulatabad. It requires one to mount thousands of crumbling staircases, walk a series of ingenious battlements, cross multiple spike-studded doors and pass a pitch-black spiralling tunnel to reach the top, but the view from up there is absolutely worth the three-hour long (to and from) expedition.
The town is also an excellent base for exploring the nearby World Heritage Sites of Ellora and Ajanta. The 34 caves of Ellora are home to hundreds of rock-cut sculptures and stunningly-carved Buddhist, Hindu and Jain temple complexes.
The seventh century Aurangabad Caves, with their underrated Buddhist architecture and sculptures, do make it to the mustvisit list. Siddarth Garden—a colossal lush lawn with shaped shrubs, a giant Buddha statue, an aquarium and a zoological park (think white tiger, lions, snakes, emus and more!)—makes for a great picnic spot to end the trip on a light, happy note.