GETTING THERE
Chennai (300 km) is the nearest metro to Chettinad. Direct flights also operate between New Delhi and Madurai (75 km). Cabs are available at the airport for onward journey for `4,000/US$57
STAY
Wake up to the sounds of old Tamil songs at The Bangala, Karaikudi, where decades-old furniture and walls adorned with sepia-toned pictures of Chettiars in their heyday will be the biggest takeaways. The place is managed by a powerhouse octogenarian Meenakshi Meyyappan, who is a proud Nagarathar. An ambassador of Chettiar culture to the world, she has created quiet corners with cupboards of literature on Chettinad—its people, culture and food. Starts from `7,212/US$103, thebangala.com
Chidamabara Vilas, Kanadukathan is a beautifully renovated Chettinad home with facilities, such as a swimming pool. The hotel offers insightful tours into the region’s history and masterclasses on
Chettiar cuisine. Starts from `8,999 / US$130, chidambaravilas.com
SHOP
The Karaikudi Antique Market on the Muneesvaran Kovil street is every antique-lover’s dream. From colourful enamel-coated cutlery imported from England to original Tanjore paintings—this street is a revelation in terms of its offerings. Visit Sri Mahalakshmi Handloom Weaving Centre (19/6, K.M.Street, Kanadukathan) to watch weavers prepare vibrant Chettinad saris.
WHEN
October to March
IDEAL FOR
Anyone who loves history and has an eye for details
MUST-SEE
The Thirumayam Fort in Pudukkottai offers unbeatable views of the villages of Chettinad. The Ayyanar Horse Temple in Kanadukathan is also worth a visit for its terracotta horses.