A White Desert Tale
India’s largest inland source of salt, Sambhar, an hour’s drive from Jaipur, Rajasthan, attracts offbeat travellers who want to explore beyond the seasoned itinerary. The Sambhar Heritage Resort offers a plush stay during an adventurous escapade here.
ITOOK OFF my boots and stepped out of the car to feel (what seemed like) the sweltering salt desert that stretched before me under a bright afternoon sun. Instead, what caressed my bare feet was soft sand, cool enough for a surprising tickle. I was in the middle of Sambhar Lake, the largest inland salt lake in India, a little ahead of Jaipur in Rajasthan. With the onset of summers, the lake had dried up to a pink dustbowl. Come winter, the place transforms into a cluster of wetlands flocked by thousands of migratory flamingoes from Siberia.
As we entered the barren countryside of Sambhar, I wondered if it was wise to expect a fancy stay at a rural setting like this one. But I was wronged by the Sambhar Heritage Resort. The first and only luxe stay in the region, the 18th
century property was built by the British, and earlier served as India’s first Circuit House. High ceilings, grand arches, and eclectic decor formed initial impressions as I entered through the imposing, pink edifice of the heritage property surrounded by lush lawns. Sustainable living and eco-friendly measure are at the heart of hospitality here—think all-vegetarian restaurants, therapeutic salt treatments at the spa, and plantable stationery.
Besides the well-appointed suites, the resort also offers a bungalow called Kothi (featuring eight suites), and 18 Swiss tents overlooking the Sambhar Lake.
A 10-mintue drive from Circuit House, and a short buggy ride later, I finally entered my modern gazebo. Monochromatic design, grand chandeliers, and bathrobes with my initials set the tone for an indulgent stay. A lazy stay-in holiday was the last thing on my mind though. From exploring the lakebed on a cycle, followed by an ATV (all-terrain vehicle) ride, to getting a first-hand experience of salt production, and enjoying an exclusive wine and cheese session in the middle of the salt desert, the hotel’s bespoke activities keep you engaged. Then there are other sites to check out including Ulta
Sambhar, which locals believe is haunted by a beggar’s ghost who once cursed the site, and turned it upside down; Devyani Sarovar, the ‘Mini Pushkar’ where Mughal Emperor Akbar wedded Rani Jodha; and the temple of Goddess Shakambhari Devi, who according to popular folklore, had blessed Sambhar by transforming it into a silver land, but later, turned it into a salt lake to prevent it from the strife that would have followed the richly possession.
At night, I sat down on a cot bed for an authentic Rajasthani dinner in the middle of Sambhar Lake as local artists sang ‘Kesariya baalam aawo ni, padhaaro maare des…’, a popular folk song emblematic to Rajasthan’s identity, while the desert gleamed under soft moonlight, making the experience absolutely surreal.