COVER STORY
From cultural extravaganzas that showcase the diverse heritage and traditions of this vast country, to religious celebrations that are a feast for the senses, this is the ultimate guide to all things festive and fun in India.
India is synonymous with its festive spirit. Browse through our pick of the top 15 Indian festivals to know the country better.
GURPURAB Amritsar, Punjab November 12 2019
GURU NANAK JAYANTI, or Gurpurab, celebrates the birthday of Guru Nanak Dev— the first of the Sikh gurus and the founder of Sikhism. A day of great significance, especially in the state of Punjab, this sacred festival is beautifully observed in every gurdwara in the country—the most prominent being the revered Golden Temple in Amritsar. Home to the world’s largest community kitchen, the Golden Temple features a central structure decked in gold.
While it’s always teeming with tourists, it brews with a different energy altogether on the day of Gurpurab. But even as the cheer and festivities on the premises heighten, the tranquillity of the place somehow manages to deepen. Daily rituals of kirtan (sacred hymns), worshipping the Guru Granth Sahib (the holy scripture of Sikhs), and sewa (community services) are carried out as usual, only with greater zeal and enthusiasm. Huge processions take place during the course of the day, where devotees perform gatka, a traditional martial art with swords.
AS SUMMER FADES into autumn, the city of Kolkata in West Bengal witnesses one of the grandest festivals of the country—Durga Puja. Celebrated in honour of the Goddess Durga, this festival is replete with fascinating rituals and scrumptious food. Big and small marquees, locally known as pandals, are put up in every nook and cranny of Kolkata, each one of them housing marvellous idols of Goddess Durga and her consort, adorned in flowers and jewels. The themes of these pandals range from Indian mythology to social issues. The four days of the festival are spent pandal-hopping, where the big attraction, besides the idols of the goddess, is the fast-paced dhunuchi naach, in which men and women dance to drum beats, holding a clay tumbler of hot coal. Durga Puja is also a time for feasts—sample lip-smacking street eats, such as puchka (fried semolina balls stuffed with spiced potato and tangy coriander mint water), alur chop (mashed, spiced potato deep fried with gram flour batter), fish cutlet, Mughlai paratha, kathi roll and more. On the last day, idols from all over the city are taken to Babughat, on the banks of the Hooghly, in a celebratory procession where hundreds join in—singing, dancing and waving the goddess farewell.
THE FESTIVAL OF COLOURS, Holi marks the onset of spring, taking on several forms across the nation. In essence though, it remains the same everywhere—a riot of colours! In Pushkar, the festival exudes a surreal charm when celebrated against the backdrop of the sacred city. Set around the holy Pushkar Lake, the small town of Pushkar is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus in India. Over the years, it has also become well known for its ‘safe’ Holi culture that attracts international tourists and Indians alike. It begins with a bonfire on the eve of the festival, followed by early morning revelries on the main day. Think old paved streets pulsating with techno music and a haze of colour in the air—Pushkar dons a whole new avatar during Holi. The festival is incomplete without finger-licking local delicacies and a glass of bhang-laced thandai.
Navaratri (literally meaning nine nights) is observed across the country with great zeal and vigour. In Gujarat, the festival takes on the most enthusiastic form—with colourful garba and dandiya raas held on each of the nine days. The entire state revels in festive spirit but the city of Vadodara stands out for its sheer grandeur of celebrations. One of the biggest garba festivals in Gujarat, and in Vadodara, the United Way of Baroda (garba. unitedwaybaroda.org) sees over 400,000 people each night!
There is delectable food, dance competitions, and traditionally dressed individuals all around. Another popular event in Vadodara is the MAA Shakti Navratri Mahotsav (mashakti.
com), which witnesses people from not just around the state or the country, but the entire world. Get ready for groovy music, stalls serving local delicacies, and handicrafts.
A FESTIVAL THAT signifies the triumph of good over evil, Dussehra is celebrated all over India with much pomp and zeal. In the city of Mysuru, in the southern state of Karnataka, ‘Mysuru Dasara’ is celebrated over a period of 10 days to mark the victory of the Goddess Chamundeshwari over the demon king Mahishasura. Twinkling lights and earthern lamps adorn the city during the festival, and the illuminated Mysore Palace, the most important landmark in Mysuru, becomes a sight to behold. Beautifully decked out elephants, camels, and horses walk together in a procession, carrying the idol of Goddess Chamundeshwari from Mysore Palace to the sacred grounds of Bannimantap. If you are a music lover, drop by one of the many concerts and dance performances that are organised all over the city during this time.
IMAGINE WALKING THROUGH the bustling lanes of Mumbai, peppered with colourful marquees displaying magnificent idols of the elephant-headed God, Lord Ganesha. India’s City of Dreams dons a spiritual avatar during Ganesh Chaturthi, the day that marks the birth of Lord Ganesha, who’s regarded as the God of Beginnings, and is thus worshipped at the start of all rites and ceremonies. Join one of the many processions carrying the ornate idol of Lord Ganesha, as it snakes through the
city amidst zealous beats of drums. The idols are adorned with flowers, and sometimes, even with gold, diamonds, and designer wear! Thousands of Ganesha idols are installed across Mumbai every year, as part of this frenzied 10-day-long festival. Local sweets like modak (dumplings filled with coconut, jaggery, cinnamon and saffron), coconut laddus and puran poli (sweet flatbread) are devoured, even as chants of Ganpati Bappa Morya (roughly translated to ‘O Father Ganesha’) rise in crescendos throughout the city. At the end of the festival, the idols are taken in massive processions, accompanied by singing and dancing, to Chowpatti Beach for the grand visarjan (immersion).
AT THE END OF THE month-long fasting during Ramadan, Muslims around the world wait in anticipation for a glimpse of the crescent moon, which announces the commencement of Eid al-Fitr. New clothes are bought and worn, prayers are offered at mosques, and feasts are prepared. Head to the bustling streets of Old Delhi to experience this festival in all its glory. Listen to the azan (call for prayer) echoing from the majestic Jama Masjid, an iconic mosque from the Mughal era. The sight of thousands of believers bowing down in prayer is sure to give you goosebumps. Later, make your way through the serpentine lanes, with rows of shops selling mouthwatering biryani, melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and exquisite phirni (a sweet pudding). There are also entire lanes dedicated to parathas (stuffed flatbread) of all kinds. Don’t forget to sample sevai, a festive sweet dish made of vermicelli, milk, and dry fruits. While there, do shop for attar (Arabic perfume) and traditional jewellery. You can also pick up spices and dry fruits for family and friends from the spice market.
THE ONSET OF SPRING in Udaipur is a melodious affair. For four years now, the City of Lakes has been hosting the World Music Festival—a one-of-its-kind musical event that sees artistes and musicians from over 20 countries come together for a weekend of good music. The lineup for the 2019 edition included the Israeli band Gulaza, Rhythm Rebels from Indonesia, traditional European music band Alabaluna from Portugal, Rocio Marquez Duet from Spain, and several Indian indie acts such as Karsh Kale, Vibha Saraf, and The Local Train. From R&B, folk, and reggae to hip-hop, indie pop, rock, and more, the festival has a diverse mix of musical styles and performances.
Light, soulful recitals in the day give way to energetic evening gigs. Align your Rajasthan itinerary with the dates of the festival, or land in Udaipur exclusively for this— your stay will be worthwhile. udaipurworldmusicfestival.com
A CELEBRATION OF agrarian traditions, Bihu in the northeastern state of Assam is observed thrice a year to mark the change of seasons. The first Bihu of the year, Rongali Bihu, a.k.a Bohag Bihu, is considered the most significant festival in the state.
It’s celebrated over a period of seven days to mark the onset of spring and the Assamese New Year. It also signifies the beginning of the sowing season, with numerous events taking place during the course of the festival— from worshipping cattle and farm animals, to exchanging gifts, lighting lamps in the farmlands, and hosting lively traditional musical performances. This rustic festival is an experience to remember, especially if you witness it in the untouched environs of Majuli—the largest river island in the world.
THE GLORIOUS BACKWATERS of the southern state of Kerala come alive with unmatched energy every August, as thousands of men and women gather on the banks to witness a grand spectacle—the Snake Boat Race. Canoestyle boats, each 100 to 120 feet long, with four navigators, 25 singers and 100125 rowers, glide through the waters, competing to cross the finish line first. The most famous of these races is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race (nehrutrophy. nic.in), held on the second Saturday of August. Apart from this, Alleppey hosts a dozen other Snake Boat Races. The event is more than just about winning, though; imagine a procession of snake boats on the verdant backwaters, with all the rowers singing songs known as vanchipattu to the rhythm of the oars. You can stay in one of the many houseboats that line the backwaters, and watch the race from the deck, while gorging on local delicacies. Tap your feet to the irresistible rhythm of song and oar, and watch with bated breath, as the boats leap forward— it will be an experience of a lifetime.
THE HORNBILL, a tropical bird recognised for its big bright bill, lends its name to this ‘festival of festivals’ in Nagaland. The Hornbill Festival, much like the bird, unites the 16 indigenous tribes of the state, over 10 days of song, dance, food, and festivities. The heritage village of Kisama, 10 km from state capital Kohima, transforms into a vibrant venue, featuring motifs from each of the tribes. During the grand festival, log drums and strident war cries echo through the hills, while participants, clad in their respective traditional tribal attire, march into the venue. Being amid the annual smorgasbord of festivities here is a real treat for the senses—expect vibrant cultural performances, indigenous sports, local food, contests ranging from archery to chilli-eating, bazaars that come alive in the night, and a lot more. Beyond the pomp and vigour of the Hornbill Festival, travellers can also opt for guided village walks that offer insight into the Naga way of life. hornbillfestival.com.
THE CARNIVAL OF CARNIVALS, the Rann Utsav of Kutch is a vibrant mix of heritage, stunning landscapes, and myriad colours. An ode to the state’s rich and diverse culture and a celebration of the unparalleled skills of its tribes, this months-long festival is organised at the edge of the Rann of Kutch, in a village called Dhordo. Literally meaning salt marsh, the expansive Rann turns into a vast fairground. From folk performances and camel rides to handicraft stalls, embroidery workshops, and hot air balloon rides—there’s a range of activities for you to indulge in. The most talked-about time of the festival, however, are the full moon nights—that’s when you’ll find it teeming with tourists from around the world. Imagine an astounding moonlit sky casting a heavenly glow on the white Rann. Come here for the views, the cultural fair, the local flavour, and to taste the free-spirited way of life in India. A trip to the westernmost part of the country is worth it during the Rann Utsav.
THE BARREN LADAKH landscape is bathed in a riot of colours during Losar, the festival that ushers in the New Year for Ladakhis. Since it’s also celebrated in Tibet and Nepal, the rituals are a medley of different traditions and customs. Ladakhi
Buddhists dress up in colourful attire, and dance to folk songs, against the backdrop of picturesque mountains and pristine river streams. The walls of the kitchens of local houses are painted with vibrant images of ibex, the mountain goat, believed to be a symbol of good luck. The festival
begins with monks making religious offerings to the Tibetan goddess Palden Lhamo. Soon, chants fill the air. Enjoy fascinating traditional dances and stage performances, such as the fight between good and evil where actors make their way into the crowd bearing blazing fire torches and sway to the hynotic deer dance.
A WEEKEND OF GRAPE stomping, head banging, wining and dining— that’s what SulaFest promises. Held at the Sula Vineyards in Nashik, Maharashtra, the festival is all about indulgence. Groove to the music of a wide range of international and Indian music artistes, while sipping on a glass of red or white. In between acts, head to the SulaFest Bazaar for a selection of gourmet food, drinks, quirky merchandise from funky brands, and fun games. Sample the varied collection of Sula wines, or opt for one of the imported brands. If you are not a wine person, there’s a wide selection of spirits from around the world for you to indulge in. You can also sign up for a winery tour or a tarot card reading session while there. sulafest.com
DIWALI, THE FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS, is celebrated across the country to commemorate the return of Lord Rama to Ayodhya after 14 years of exile. However, the ancient city of Varanasi, set on the banks of the River Ganga, waits another fortnight to celebrate what is called Dev Deepawali—Diwali of the Gods. Celebrated on the full moon day of the Kartik month of the Hindu calendar, it is believed to be the auspicious day when the gods and goddesses visited Earth for a dip in the holy river. Every nook and cranny of the city holds pujas and feasts, while the courtyards of homes are decked out with flowers and lights. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the city and take a dip in the Ganga, and afterwards, release earthen lamps on the river. Imagine all the 84 ghats of the city glowing in the light of a thousand lamps, with the sound of hymns, chants, and temple bells pulsating through the air. Embark on a boat ride in the evening of the festival and take in the beauty from the water—an experience that is magical, overwhelming, and unforgettable, to say the least.