Food of T he Gods
Ganesh Chaturthi, dedicated to the elephantheaded God, is one of the first festivals post monsoon. In the West, in Maharashtra, and particularly in Mumbai and Pune—massive Ganpati idols are installed in decorated pandals. One of Maharashtra’s favourite sweets, shrikhand, made of hung curd whipped with powdered sugar and cardamom, is offered to the deity and relished by the worshippers afterwards. There are pujas at home as well, and Ganesha’s favourite, modak, is made. The traditional one is called ukadiche modak, a steamed rice-flour dumpling stuffed with coconut and jaggery. Lately, innovative versions are being crafted out of khoya (reduced milk) and even chocolate.
Neighbouring Gujarat slips into festive mood with Navratri, a nineday festival celebrating the victory of Lord Rama over the demon king Ravana. The nights come alive with traditional dances, such as garba and dandiya ras, and sweet indulgences like doodh halwa and jalebis. For many, this is also a time of fasting, when they eat only one meal a day and abstain from certain ingredients such as wheat, potatoes, onion, and garlic. ‘Fast food’ takes on a whole new meaning in this region, with an array of special dishes that are laid out during the fasting period. These include rajgire ki puri, made of amaranth flour, and vadas and khichri made of sabudana (tapioca pearls).
Goa is ideal for Christmas and New Year breaks, when the state is in extra celebratory mood. While the shacks, resorts, and hotels are packed with holiday-makers, home cooks and bakers get busy whipping up seasonal goodies. A typical Goan Christmas table features beef and chicken roasts, spicy vindaloo served with steamed rice cakes called sannas, and a cornucopia of cakes and sweets inspired by Portuguese baking traditions, such as plum cake, kulkuls (pastry shells dipped in sugar), and baath cake made of semolina and coconut.