Flavours of T he Sout h
In the South too, Ganesh Chaturthi marks the beginning of the festive season. The coconut and jaggery-filled dumplings, known in Tamil Nadu as modakam, are placed before Ganesha idols. A few weeks later, when Navratri arrives, sundal (boiled pulses and lentils tossed with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and coconut) is offered to the goddess and guests.
Then comes Deepavali (better known as Diwali), the festival of lights. The famous Mysore pak made with chickpea flour, halwa, and laddus rule the day. Traditional homes in Karnataka make kajjaya, fritters of rice flour and jaggery or sugar, and holige—thin bread stuffed with coconut, dal, jaggery, and cardamom. Hyderabad is the ideal city to sample the scrumptious dishes made during the month of Ramadan. In the shadow of Charminar, restaurants and stalls serve up haleem, a slow-cooked porridge of wheat, lentils, meat, and spices; scented biryanis; samosas stuffed with meat; and juicy kebabs.
One of the highlights of Kerala’s festival calendar is Onam, which falls in the month of September. According to mythology, King Mahabali, who visits the land on this day, is welcomed with elaborate floral decorations and a spread of local delicacies. The long line-up of dishes known as Onam sadya is served on banana leaves. Celebrating the bounty of the season, a typical sadya includes banana chips, pickles, gourds cooked in coconut milk, medleys of vegetables in yogurt, all accompanied with rice. A sweet porridge, ada pradhaman, ends the meal on a sweet note.