THE LOSTValley
Relatively less explored with a landscape that enthrals, the Dzukou Valley in Nagaland is a paradise that can make even the most discerning trekker an ardent fan. Text & photographs by
IN THE WINTER of last year, as I was planning my first extensive tour of the Northeast, I was advised by David Angami, founder of the adventure travel outfit India Trail ( indiatrail.org), that shouldn’t miss out on the Dzukou Valley in Nagaland. I must admit I was a bit sceptical and a tad blasé at first, having been on several magnificent high-altitude treks in the Great Himalayas, where I had crossed icy passes forbidding in their isolation and took in amazing vistas of soaring peaks that kissed impossibly blue skies. What could such a lowaltitude ramble in the green hills of Nagaland offer to an experienced adventurer?
We ambled along in a single file in the bright sunlight, following a narrow trail cut through the foliage towards signs of human habitation. The rest houses appeared closer than they were, and it took us two hours to reach them. People try to make it to Dzukou Valley and back in one day, but this makes little sense if you want to relish the beauty of the place. We had decided on two nights and had opted for a full-service camping experience with tents, guide, and porters. But there are cheaper options too, and the rest houses have private rooms and dormitories with spartan sleeping and toilet facilities and a common firewood kitchen. These are maintained by the Southern Angami Youth Organisation (SAYO) and are the only human settlements allowed in the entire valley.
After unrolling our sleeping bags and settling into our tents, we snuggled with warm cups of tea in our hands to watch the main show. Sunset arrives very early in this far eastern corner of India, and the valley quickly began to darken before us. A series of small green hillocks undulated downwards to a plain covered in thickets of dwarf bamboo. To me, they looked like mysterious forms huddled under a vast blanket of green. Then the sun finally sank behind the line of dark hills.
We woke up in the cold light of dawn, as the shadows were being dispelled by sunlight. Younger bravehearts had woken long before us and scrambled down to experience the dawn in the frozen valley. We waited until the sun had warmed our older bones before venturing down. After crossing a few shallow but incredibly clear streams that flowed silently through the valley floor, we clambered up a small hillock to reach our final destination—a tall cross standing watch like a lone sentinel, its battered sheets of metal tattooed with graffiti over the years. Many Nagas are Christians today, their conversion dating back to the days of the Britishers, who thought converting them would transform the warrior culture and stop the constant feuds between villages. At the base of the cross, a small group of devotees from the Angami tribe sat huddled, carving out their names on smooth flat pebbles that they would later place in the clear waters for good luck. We joined them in silence.
During the high summer months of June and July, Dzukou Valley transforms into a botanist’s delight. A secret garden in the heart of the valley is carpeted with wildflowers and rhododendrons, with the star of the show being the rare pink Dzukou Lily, an endemic variety. For the foreign visitor, the added attraction of the valley is that it is still relatively undiscovered, probably because of its remote location and the fact that there is no luxury accommodation here. So, if you are an outdoors enthusiast looking for an outstanding offbeat adventure that will not tax you in terms of time, budget, or effort, look no further than Nagaland’s magical Dzukou Valley.
The undulating landscape of Dzukou Valley; ( the valley is covered in wildflowers during summer.
GETTING THERE
The trek starts from Viswema village in Nagaland, which is a 45-minute drive from Kohima. The closest airport to Kohima is at Dimapur, which serves direct flights to and from Guwahati, Imphal, and Kolkata. The drive from Dimapur to Kohima is about 78 km and takes approximately three hours.
STAY
Dzukou Valley has only one basic rest house offering two camp-like dorms and five private rooms. If you are basing yourself in Kohima, Hotel Vivor is a fairly new hotel with modern facilities located starts from 5,500/USD75; vivor. niathugroup.com).
Hotel De Oriental Grand starts from 5,000/USD68; deorientalgrand.com).
WHEN
December in Kohima and Christmas is the most important festival for the Christian Nagas—in the course of a normal year.
IDEAL FOR
Adventurous travellers, nature lovers.
TOURS
The best way to experience Dzukou Valley is to let a professional adventure travel company like India Trail organise everything for you, including tents, guide, porters, permits, and all meals. (` 15,540/USD210 for three nights and four days per head for a couple, and 10,867/USD150 per head for a fourperson group; indiatrail.org).
DISCOVER