COLONIAL TRAIL
The timeless charm of Agra extends beyond its pièce de résistance, the Taj Mahal. Pockets of colonial candour can be found at every turn, if only one were to stop and notice.
Go beyond the Taj Mahal and explore the hidden colonial-era monuments of Agra.
WHAT IF I TOLD YOU I could show you another Taj Mahal in Agra?” asks my guide, Yogesh, enthusiastically. I’m struck by the magnanimity of this relatively tiny North Indian city— just how many historic structures can it hold within its limited premises? He continues, “Not just that, I’ll take you to a few lesser-known spots in the city that are very significant in Agra’s colonial past”. The fact that Agra can hold its visitors in rapt attention— and not just with the Taj Mahal— makes me sit up and take notice. I buckle up and get ready to explore the historic city’s oft- overlooked neighbourhoods. And I am in for several surprises.
Our first stop is the Roman Catholic Cemetery, which is home to the graves of some prominent Dutch and French businessmen who died in India in the 1700s and 1800s. Even though the tombs are of Catholics, they exhibit Islamic motifs and Persian epitaphs inscribed mostly on red sandstone. It is here that we see the other Taj Mahal that Yogesh had mentioned earlier in the day. The Red Taj Mahal, made of red sandstone sourced from Fatehpur Sikri, was commissioned by Ann Hessing. She was the widow of John William Hessing, a Dutch mercenary who once served the Maratha chieftain Mahadji Scindia (1730-1794). He was also the commandant of the Agra Fort. Needless to say, his wife lacked the means of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, but she spent around ` 1 lakh and commissioned this smaller, red version of the Taj Mahal as an ode to her late husband. Another differentiating factor is that the Red Taj Mahal doesn’t have freestanding minars like the original.
Persian inscriptions and jalis adorn this gorgeous structure, and we climb a few stairs to see the tomb located under the dome. Opposite the Red Taj Mahal is the octagonal Ellis Family Tomb. Its most notable feature is a glistening metallic cross on the top of an Islamic dome— a remarkable fusion of Christian and Mughal architectural motifs. As I walk around the Roman Catholic Cemetery, a silence envelops me; it’s devoid of the eeriness one might expect in final resting places. I’m also intrigued by Marty’s Chapel and the grave of John Mildenhall, the first recorded Englishman to be buried in India.
As we drive around the city, Yogesh points out various historic sites that now house ordinary businesses. Among them is the land that was once owned by a certain Abdul Karim. The 2017 movie Victoria & Abdul, starring Judi Dench and Ali Fazal as the titular characters, recounted the camaraderie of Queen Victoria and Agra-born Abdul Karim, who was one of her servants. She fondly called him ‘Munshi’, and he travelled with her frequently. She gave him land grants and arranged for an estate for him to live in on his return to India. However, his grave, in the Royal Graveyard of Agra, is a far cry from his stately position under her rule. It’s a long walk into the cemetery, and we manoeuvre through tall, unruly grass to reach a green tomb. It is disheartening to
St Peter’s Church, also known as the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception; Agra’s Head Post Office was built in 1913 in the style of a British bungalow; Akbar’s Church was first built under orders from the Mughal emperor, and is known to be Agra’s first Catholic church. see his grave in abject ruin, sheathed in a century of dust. A caretaker mutedly shows us the epitaph, and I feel a lump in my throat. I learn that Karim also donated land for the construction of the Queen Victoria Girls College in Agra.
On our drive back into the city, we stop for a quick glimpse of the sprawling St John’s College, Agra ( stjohnscollegeagra.in). Established in 1850, it displays the same Indo-Saracenic style of architecture as the Roman Catholic Cemetery. Set up by the Church Missionary Society of England in conjunction with the Agra C.M.S. Association, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful buildings in North India. Gorgeous lawns complement the splendour of the complex. Yogesh and I also swing by Agra’s Head Post Office. Painted in white and red, the building was built in 1913 in the style of a delightful British bungalow on The Mall Road in the Cantonment of Agra. Today, it enjoys the status of being a heritage post office, and boasts a 13.7-metre-tall central dome and a philatelic gallery showcasing a wide collection of postage stamps.
GETTING THERE The international airport closest to Agra is in New Delhi. Connected with the Taj Express Highway, Agra is about 231 kilometres away from the capital. Agra Cantonment is the major railhead in the city and is well connected to most Indian cities by daily train services.
STAY Hotel Clarks Shiraz offers recentlyrenovated rooms, unparalleled hospitality, and delectable cuisine (starts from ` 4,500/USD61; hotelclarksshiraz.com). Courtyard Agra offers easy access to Agra’s legendary attractions ( starts from
6,449/USD88 per night; marriott.com).
WHEN
IDEAL FOR A colonial tour is recommended for history and architecture fiends.
DISCOVER