FASH­ION WEEK DI­ARY Who siz­zled and fiz­zled on day 2 and 3 at Lakme Fash­ion Week...

DNA Sunday (Mumbai) - - FRONT PAGE - Man­ish Mishra

Ro­man­ti­cism and nostal­gia have al­ways been the core of Payal Sing­hal aes­thetic. This time too, she ven­tured into the fa­mil­iar ter­ri­tory of old world re­galia but pre­sented it with an of- the- mo­ment flour­ish. Crop tops, vo­lu­mi­nous lehenga skirts and con­cept saris paired with decol­letage- bar­ing blouses have been her hot- sellers over the sea­sons. One can easily de­duce that she stuck to her tried- and- tested route of nudes, peri­win­kle blue and and blacks with gold ac­cents but ev­ery en­sem­ble un­mis­tak­ably ra­di­ated a ‘ I want to wear it now’ vibe. Payal’s muse is a sen­sual bride, who ap­pre­ci­ates sim­plic­ity and ease in gar­ments and doesn’t mind opt­ing for come- hither wet hair. A flirty ar­ray of off- shoul­der cho­lis and lehen­gas, cold shoul­der kur­tas, scal­loped hem­lines and low crotch pants with her sig­na­ture in­ter­play of flo­ral and geo­met­ric pat­terns made it one of the most well edited and styled col­lec­tion at Lakme Fash­ion Week. Hav­ing noted that, here’s hop­ing that she takes her craft to a new level of ex­per­i­men­ta­tion in the com­ing sea­sons. The de­signer re­turned to Lakme Fash­ion Week af­ter a gap of one year with a line in­spired by the Ja­panese em­broi­dery tech­nique of Sashiko. The sooth­ing and vi­brant en­sem­bles were pep­pered with Sashiko prints, indigo dyes and patch­work. Her fo­cus was asym­me­try, lay­ers and tiers. She picked fab­rics in­clud­ing be­m­bergs, modal blends with silk, cot­ton voile, khadi, linen and the ubiq­ui­tous vis­cose satin. The show glo­ried thanks to mono­tone em­broi­deries, quilt­ing, patch­work, dip dyes and prints. There were pock­eted jacket tu­nics, vo­lu­mi­nous tiered tops, shirt dresses — how­ever, the en­sem­bles felt too busy thanks to the way they were put to­gether. In­di­vid­u­ally each sep­a­rate works as a great lay­er­ing op­tion whether one at­tempts to do lay­er­ing in­side or out­side but too many lay­ers to­gether just made the pre­sen­ta­tion dis­jointed and took away from the ef­fort which went into its mak­ing. Ac­cord­ing to the show notes, de­signer Anav­ila was in­spired by the sig­nif­i­cant di­a­logue be­tween In­dian women and the sari drape. In­stead of do­ing a run­way show, the de­signer chose to il­lus­trate it in a se­ries of in­stal­la­tions. Think four in­di­vid­u­al­is­tic styles — fes­tive, ro­mance, work and street. Lus­cious jewel tones, saris paired with man­nish shirts and lay­ered with trench coats stood out. There were no- non­sense work drapes, some pre­sented with a sen­su­ous twist and oth­ers put to­gether play­fully mim­ick­ing street style. Per­haps the de­signer’s way of de­cod­ing a nar­ra­tive that true style is about mak­ing each look dis­tinc­tively your own. fruits and flow­ers and other times with chirp­ing birds and cutesy bun­nies. This sea­son, she en­vi­sioned a sur­real win­ter gar­den and hence came el­e­ments like deep shade of aubergine and red leaves. This was her most re­fined out­ing till date with pared down tones and edited prints. There was a nifty mix of art prints min­gled with or­ganic fab­rics and tex­tures. Also, she toyed with dif­fer­ent sil­hou­ettes — from struc­tured to over­size and de­con­structed. A clever use of doo­dle prints, jute and botan­i­cal in­signia like flower pots made it breath­tak­ing.

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