Down to Earth

FOOD/LABELING

- MEENAKSHIS­USHMA Kitab al-tabikh, Cury,

BACK IN 1226 AD, historians for the first time documented a kind of milk that humans could consume as an alternativ­e to the one that animals produce.

an Arab cookbook from Baghdad, has recipes with sweet almond milk as an ingredient. In 1390s, The Forme of

a collection of 200 medieval English recipes, mentioned “almand mylke”, or almond milk.

Over centuries, several cultures have adapted alternativ­e milk. In Southeast Asia and even India, coconut milk is used as a beverage and added to sweet and savoury dishes. It was, therefore, a rude shock to the plant-based milk industry when the Food Safety Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) issued a draft regulation stating that they could no longer use the word “milk” on their labels.

The draft, made public for comments on July 21, 2020, states that for such products, “dairy term or phonetical­ly similar or spell alike terms” shall not be used in the nomenclatu­re. FSSAI calls it Food Safety and Standards (Food Products Standards and Food Additives) Amendment Regulation­s, 2020, and says the change will clear confusion among consumers and allow them to make informed choices. “For instance, if the label says almond milk, the consumer might get confused that the product has almond as well as milk,” explains R S Sodhi, managing director, Amul.

But Karnika Bhatia, a Delhibased yoga therapist is not confused as a consumer. “I am aware that plant-based milk is not sourced from animal dairy,” she says. Bhatia has been drinking it for the past five years after her physician advised her against consuming dairy milk to keep her lower back problem at bay. She now drinks almond and cashew milk which she prepares at home and occasional­ly buys almond and soy milk from the market. She claims her mother’s arthritis was completely treated after shifting to plantbased milk. Bhatia has friends who are lactose-intolerant and do not consume dairy milk at all. People

“BY PROVIDING DAIRY INDUSTRY THE EXCLUSIVE USE OF GENERIC TERMS ‘MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS’, THE DRAFT INFRINGES UPON THE FREEDOM OF TRADE OF BUSINESSES THAT MANUFACTUR­E PLANTBASED MILK”

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