Down to Earth

VIBHA VARSHNEY

USING LOCAL INGREDIENT­S IN BAKING CAN MAKE FOOD HEALTHIER

- Phalsa, (rasbhari), (shehtoot), gondhoraj karonde mawa Uparwali Chai gajar ka halwa halwa chikki mawa ghee baati, samosas tarte tatin rasbhari tandoors—the kachoris phalsa litti kadhai @vibhavarsh­ney

IT’S AN interestin­g idea. In her book, Uparwali Chai: The Indian Art of High Tea, Pamela Timms promotes high teas. But there is a twist to the book—she has used indigenous Indian ingredient­s for preparing the cakes, pastries and cookies to be served at this meal. She has customised traditiona­l European recipes to replace cream, berries, apples and bananas with cape gooseberri­es mulberries lime, (Bengal currant), pickles, tamarind, curd and

(concentrat­ed and solidified milk). She has even used Roohafza cordial, a multiherb cooling drink that can be found in most Indian homes to flavour cakes, and used for making cupcakes.

The idea of using Indian ingredient­s in baking is intriguing and required experiment­ation which the author did during her work on events, which were held across Delhi since 2009. The results of these experiment­s were presented to the patrons of these events. Tea was only a peripheral part of these meals.

In one of the recipes, she uses

to make a muffin. Carrot cakes are common, but

has and and the carrots are a bit candied during the preparatio­n process. This is what gives an extra depth to what could have been a simple muffin. In another recipe, she prepared a jam using used on tarts.

Baking is not new to India. We have been using traditiona­l clay oven—from time immemorial, and even the most rustic of the dishes, like and

are baked using open fires. But cakes are more fashionabl­e. The book provides the new generation an understand­ing that local ingredient­s can be used for baking. This makes baking easy as one need not run across town to find blueberrie­s. And it is better to bake at home as most cakes sold in the market have creamy icings and sugary decoration­s which are unhealthy. Using the local ingredient­s at home provides a way of making them even healthier. I personally prefer snacks like

and with my cup of tea in the afternoon and the book does provide recipes for some savoury baked dishes too. But this does not take away the fact that Indian snacks are easier to prepare and do not need special equipment.

But Timms justifies the book beautifull­y—it is a meal which does not have any purpose other than the fact that it is an indulgence.

In most cases a simple (wok) suffices. However, the book may leave you wanting to know more about what a mulberry meringue or cape gooseberry

or a cream horn looks like. which she then

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