runway report

Take on fall’s 10 most terrific trends

Leather

DARK AND EDGY, leather was all over the runways as designers from Frida Giannini at Gucci to Raakesh Agarvwal embraced their noir sides. Rooney Mara’s turn in The Girl With

the Dragon Tattoo might have had something to do with it. Francisco Costa cited the actress as a muse for his Calvin Klein show, while Donatella Versace’s neo-Gothic mini-dresses and coats paid homage

to her brother Gianni’s final collection.

Bordeaux

ALSO KNOWN (somewhat objectionably) as oxblood, this deep crimson is being touted as the colour of the season, giving last year’s primary red a run for its money. Situated somewhere in the fine-wine neighbourhood of the colour spectrum, the shade expresses its bright side at Hermès and Anju Modi, and is at its most sanguine when given the shine treatment at Alexander Wang, or on a silken surface at Wendell Rodricks. Statement accessories in the hue du jour, like Céline’s oversize clutch or Derek Lam’s ankle-strap bootie, are an easy way to tap into the look without going full bleed.

CArte BLAnCHe

WE’VE COME A LONG WAY from the ‘no white after Labor Day’ era. This season, designers encouraged the liberal use of winter

white and went so far as to champion it as the new coldweather neutral. Chic separates at Stella McCartney and Swapnil Shinde, crafty outerwear at Pankaj & Nidhi, and must-have accessories at Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta all made the sartorial

point, as did achromatic ensembles from Proenza Schouler, Anand Kabra, and Chanel. Global climate change or not, we’re

forecasting a white winter.

Pretty in Pink

DESIGNERS LOOKED THROUGH rose-coloured glasses when

conceiving their collections, and with groundbreaking results— come fall, we’ll all be thinking pink. Raf Simons’s blush-tinted toppers at

Jil Sander and Sarah Burton’s cotton-candy cloud of a dress for Alexander McQueen were among the most memorable moments from the shows. Pieces like Céline’s menswearinflected overcoat, Dior’s neutralising suede shoe, and Drashta’s tapestry-tapping, Persian pink-and-blush frock proved that the sweetest colour

in the spectrum doesn’t have to look saccharine.

OfficeR’s club

MILITARY-INSPIRED looks invaded the fall runways, with high-style adaptations of the officer’s overcoat in classic army green leading the charge at Haider Ackermann and Max Mara. Dries Van Noten deployed luxurious parkas replete with five-star-general-worthy fur hoods, and the knee-high boots at Gucci and Bottega Veneta were anything but standard issue. Add quilted outerwear and handbags from Burberry

Prorsum, plus sleek navy coat-dresses at Rishta by Arjun Saluja, and it’s clear that the military moment will be taking over

this season.

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Razzle Dazzle

FORGET STATEMENT JEWELLERY. Fall’s clothes are embellished, embroidered, and bejewelled enough to make an heirloom-quality impact all on their own. Miuccia Prada may have plumbed the contents of many vaults to deliver shifts made up of major rocks at Miu Miu and suits adorned with outsize sparklers at Prada. Closer home,

Abraham & Thakore too seemed to be having reflective visions, as showcased by their Kutchi, mirror-worked separates. Those who would

rather keep their carats in the accessories genre will find much to love in stone-studded handbags from Valentino and Givenchy, and even Marc

Jacobs’s entrance-making pilgrim loafers.

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GEOGRaphics

A POCKET FULL OF PATTERNS isn’t quite enough this season. A meteoric burst of printed matter has made its mark. Kallol Datta’s black-and-white snail print sari gave the silhouette a universal edge, much like the new houndstooth, woven version of the Lady Dior. Diane

Von Furstenberg, Shift by Nimish Shah, and Rahul Mishra offered allover patterned put-togethers that were dizzyingly dapper, while Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Phillip Lim put up pixelated lego patterns to create a futuristic flourish. This time around leave clashing shapes for toddlers.

Take the traditional approach with a matched-out patterned ensemble.

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GLOBE-TROTTER

THIS FALL YOU CAN GO AROUND THE WORLD in 80 ways. Right from Massimiliano Giornetti’s decadent peasant-like pieces for Salvatore Ferragamo to Valentino’s oriental carpet mimicked coats, there was a nuanced native vibe running right through the season.

Even Lagerfeld dished out a few fluid, multi-dyed tunics with serpentine scarves at Chanel, but theirs wasn’t the only ‘shibori’ tale to tell. Nachiket Barve and James Ferreira used traditional tiedye techniques in a head-turning manner. On the accessories front, Alexander McQueen’s pony hoove-like boots were the best bet to make the voyage in.

mAn moment

WHEN MIUCCIA PRADA SHED HER SKIRT to try on a trouser, there was no doubt that pant-suits will be the star this season. But precision, menswear tailoring tactics have taken over womenswear on the runways in more than one way. Be it roomy overcoats at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Alberta Ferretti or grandpa-grey suiting fabric seen at Rishta by Arjun Saluja, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Ralph Lauren,

the clever classics were made modern with crisp fits. Quirk made an entry with Miu Miu’s jewel-toned, silk renditions or Ruchika Sachdeva’s more casual, colour-blocked concoctions. To seal the deal, Emporio Armani offered crystal-studded oxfords and Louis Vuitton’s multi-purpose

portmanteaus and doctor bags are the absolute mannish mates.

Les Arts DecorAtifs

ORNATE EXTRAVAGANCE would be considered the catch phrase to describe this fall’s opulent mood. It varied from decorative rococoinspirations as seen at Moschino and Oscar de la Renta to indulgent,

eastern brocades displayed by Vineet Bahl, Marni and Jason Wu-clearly hinting that in this midnight hour you must go for more, more, more! And it doesn’t end there; matching extras also come in über opulent avatars, like Dolce&Gabbana’s gold-embroidered booties and Fendi’s florid, woven tote-the perfect partners to add some

ritz and regalia.

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