NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

32, BRITISH SHOE DESIGNER

“We really focused on luxe, RICH MATERIALS, reinterpreted in a MODERN way”

His name is synonymous with innovative use of materials, and true to form, Nicholas Kirkwood’s Fall ’13 collection is as tactile as it is covetable. “We really focused on luxe, rich materials,” he explains. “Fox, different types of lace, suede, python… traditional luxury fabrics reinterpreted in a modern way.”

The designer recently launched his new line at Level Shoe District in The Dubai Mall, which despite its tempered palette, was typically bold, and permeated with his signature architectural quality—a by-product of his training under Philip Treacy. “Working with him, I learned the language of studying shapes and abstract forms.”

His collection plays with intriguing and often surprising shapes. “The new heel looks very thin from the side, but wide from the back, and curvy. I’ve done a few with a square toe, and half the collection is pointy toes, so I think that’s got a nice feel. I’ve taken a different direction this time.”

Since his first collection launched eight years ago, Kirkwood has amassed a cult celebrity following, with Alexa Chung, Sienna Miller, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Sarah Jessica Parker among his devotees. He doesn’t have a special muse as such, but admits that seeing fellow Londoner Tilda Swinton wearing his designs at Cannes was a career high. “She’s the epitome of Brit cool,” he says. “I guess it’s great if anyone you like wears your shoes.”