Bazaar Decodes

A leitmotif in Cartier’s most exquisite creations since 1914, The Panthère has earned its spot in history

Cartier’s first panther spots appeared on a wristwatchinhin 1914, its black onyx and diamonds heralding art deco. Jeanne Toussaint, a well-known Parisienne who joined the company almost four years later and rose to become the director of jewellery, came to be at the heart of the Panthère cult. With jewellery designer Peter Lemarchand, she crafted the first brooches—a reclining panther in onyx and diamonds on platinum—using the design later in neckpieces, rings, bracelets, and evening bags. Almost a century later, it continues to be the French jeweller’s signature.

The Duchess of Windsor was the first to purchase a Panthère clip in yellow gold with black enamel, crouching on a 90-karat emerald cabochon. The Panthère series was expanded to include other felines. This tiger, crafted from brilliant-cut diamonds, was...

In its first Panthère design for a perfume bottle, Cartier launched the Panthère de Cartier, which features two big cats clasping a bottle in the form of a facetted diamond. The newest avatars. From left: The Fabuleux Baguette Panthère watch; a...

Duchess of Windsor

Barbara Hutton