From Jaipur , with love

A first for an In­dian de­signer, ANITA DON­GRE launches her line of FINE JEW­ELLERY

Harper's Bazaar (India) - - BAZAARACCESSORIES - By Me­her Varma

Jaipur-born pow­er­house Anita Don­gre earns another first with her lat­est ven­ture, Pinkc­ity Jew­ellery: She is now the only In­dian fash­ion de­signer launch a line of pre­cious jew­ellery. This ven­ture adds to her two ead­ing la­bels—AND and Global Desi– which cur­rently re­tail at 41 and 54 stores re­spec­tively na­tion­wide, and of­fer ev­ery­thing from high- street styles to or­nate bridal­wear. This year, she aims to reach an an­nual rev­enue of 350 crores, and sell at 125 stores do­mes­ti­cally. Don­gre even opened a flag­ship store in Mau­ri­tius last year. It’s no won­der that all th­ese suc­cesses have con­trib­uted to mak­ing her In­dia’s high­est gross­ing de­signer to­day.

Pinkc­ity Jew­ellery is another ex­pres­sion of the de­signer’s in­no­va­tion. “It was the nat­u­ral next step. Ev­ery time I did bridal­wear shoots, I used my jew­ellery. So, I thought I must do a jew­ellery line,” she says. Don­gre’s col­lab­o­ra­tion with Pradeep Jethani—who has spe­cialised in cus­tom-made jew­ellery since 1981— was key to Pinkc­ity. Jethani, who owns Mum­bai’s Jet Gems, has been Don­gre’s fam­ily jew­eller for decades, and is best known for the art of made-to-or­der. With his decades of spe­cialised ex­pe­ri­ence and Anita’s knowl­edge of de­sign, a part­ner­ship with di­vided re­spon­si­bil­i­ties emerged: “I know how a garment drapes, but un­der­stand­ing jew­ellery takes years of ex­pe­ri­ence,” she ex­plains. Ac­cord­ing to Jethani, both Don­gre and he share a keen eye for de­tail, which makes theirs a seam­less part­ner­ship. A-list friends Juhi Chawla, Karisma Kapoor, and Aditi Rao Hy­dari have al­ready been seen wear­ing Pinkc­ity jewels.

The aes­thetic of Pinkc­ity is very much in sync with her brand, strad­dling both In­dian and Western, con­tem­po­rary and tra­di­tional sen­si­bil­i­ties with ease. There is also the sub­tle in­te­gra­tion of Don­gre’s pen­chant for ro­mance with the use of dainty pearls, el­e­gant flo­ral mo­tifs, and meenakari work. And the re­sult is a beau­ti­ful, hand­crafted line of jadau jew­ellery de­signed by Don­gre. Much of her own per­sonal col­lec­tion, and what the de­signer grew up see­ing and ad­mir­ing in Ra­jasthan, be­came an in­spi­ra­tion for her first range that boasts im­mac­u­late pieces rang­ing from jhumkas and multi-strand polki neck­laces, to ban­gles and cuffs. As re­flected in this col­lec­tion, Don­gre also prefers the “rus­tic and an­tique feel of polki” over cut-and-pol­ished di­a­monds. Th­ese pieces be­gin at ` 75,000 and re­tail ex­clu­sively at Anita Don­gre’s bri­dal store Sky­zone in Lower Parel, Mum­bai.

While Pinkc­ity has al­ready made a splash, in the works are cuff­links and but­tons for men, who Don­gre says have been ne­glected, but were the orig­i­nal in­spi­ra­tion be­hind this col­lec­tion. With all this and more lined up, Don­gre is set to shine on.

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