TREASURE TROVE
How do you put together an exhibition that surmises 500 years of Indian jewels and craftsmanship? Guest curator of a forthcoming historic showcase in Moscow, Dr Usha Balakrishnan gives Bazaar a sneak peek at the never-seen-before pieces.
Istepped into the square that was surrounded by gleaming white buildings. On one side was the imposing façade of Moscow’s Patriarch’s Palace, with its columned arches and golden domes, and on the other side rose the majestic Ivan the Great Bell Tower. Fittingly, these two beautiful and historic spaces have been chosen to be venues for the exhibition India: Jewels that Enchanted the World, an exceptional adventure between India and Russia, two countries which have always remained linked by trade in gems and jewels.
India: Jewels that Enchanted the World presents more than 250 spectacular pieces of Indian jewellery from museums and private collections around the world. There is a never-seen-before exquisite baroque pearl pendant crafted in the image of the Nagadevata, and a magnificent necklace comprising five outstandingly beautiful flat portrait diamonds that have survived the vicissitudes of plunder and changing fashions. There are hair jewels inspired by the lush vegetation of South India, and in the magnificent gold marriage necklace of the Chettiar community of Tamil Nadu is enshrined the history of wealthy merchants who migrated inland from the Coromandel coast. On display are also turban ornaments, ranging from a simple row of pearls to flamboyant creations blazing with gemstones. Royal accoutrements, like hukkahs (water vessels), fashioned out of gold and lavishly encrusted with gems and decorated with exquisite enamelling, highlight the exceptional skills of the court jewellers of Rajasthan.
Stories of communities and rites of passage are enshrined in these jewels, which were also symbols of power. The exhibition is thus meant to be an in-depth study into regal lifestyles.
The genesis of the exhibition dates back several years, when a chance meeting with Alex Popov, president of the Moscow Diamond Bourse and founder of the Indo-Russian Jewellery Foundation, resulted in an invitation to be a part of the dream project. At that time I was based in Mumbai, having earlier associated with the Brooklyn Museum, where I worked on a Mughal jewellery project. When the idea was conceived to do an exhibition showcasing 500 years of Indian jewellery, I was considered to be the most appropriate choice to be the curator. A visit to India by Dr Elena Gagarina, general director of the State Museums of Moscow Kremlin, set the exhibition in motion with the idea to showcase the sublime beauty of Indian craftsmanship, the skill of gemstone setting, and the aesthetic refinement that is so much a part of Indian ethos.
As one can imagine, conceptualising and putting together an exhibition of this magnitude, that traces the connect between Indian design and European jewellers and draws historical parallels, comes with a unique set of challenges. Of the vast quantities of Indian jewels that were made, only a small number has survived. Jewels have been melted down, gems have been recut and recycled into new settings, some have been scattered, and others zealously guarded by proud owners. The care required in their transport and exhibition is of a very high order. The ultimate challenge, however, was to work across continents— with the Russian curator Ekaterina Shcherbina and lenders from the USA, Europe, Middle East, and India.
But it all seems worthwhile when you view the pieces. The exhibition explores the striking boldness of South Indian jewels, the delicate refinement of the Mughal period, flamboyant bijoux of maharajas, the cross-cultural influences in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the creations of contemporary designers like Munnu Kasliwal and Viren Bhagat. Combining all jewels, from the palaces and zenanas of maharajas and maharanis to the ateliers of humble goldsmiths, our approach was to create an experience that would enchant the world. India: Jewels that Enchanted the World is on view at The State Museum of Moscow Kremlin, from April 12-July 27.