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Harper's Bazaar (India) - - BAZAARSTYLE -

Think winged eye­liner, Mary Quant miniskirts, pea coats, capes, and high boots, and you im­me­di­ately think of the ’60s. You think of the mod squad, a whole gen­er­a­tion of Bri­tish kids who de­fined the sexy, stream­lined, he­do­nis­tic fash­ion and life­style of the ’60s (re­mem­ber Twiggy?). So many iconic fash­ion state­ments are as­so­ci­ated with this swing­ing decade. And so many iconic women, too: Su­per­model Jean Shrimp­ton, Andy Warhol’s iconic Fac­tory Girl, so­cialite and ac­tress Edie Sedg­wick, and Yves Saint Lau­rent’s famed muse Betty Ca­troux. And this sea­son, we find that de­sign­ers across the world have, in quiet con­spir­acy, col­lab­o­rated to bring the ’60s back to life. The straight shift be­comes a sta­ple, to be paired with boots and over­sized sunglasses. The pea coat, the cape, the midi length, and the doublebreasted coa­tee are ev­ery­where, as if de­sign­ers—from Ni­co­las Gh­esquiere at Louis Vuit­ton to Alessandra Facchinetti at Tod’s—dipped into the same caul­dron for their help­ing of in­spi­ra­tion.

For Matthew Wil­liamson, whose vivid colours and prints have made him the poster boy for boho, the party cir­cuit of the ’60s and ’70s is a con­stant source of in­spi­ra­tion. “It was such a di­verse era vis­ually. Style icons at the time ranged from Bianca Jag­ger and Talitha Getty to David Bowie and Patti Smith. Peo­ple were ex­per­i­ment­ing and open to fash­ion ideas; it was a defin­ing pe­riod for fash­ion,” he says. In a nod to his eter­nal party-girl, Wil­liamson laid out a black and white star­burst car­pet and ref­er­enced the era’s sharp tai­lor­ing and rich tex­tures like lurex, vel­vet, and chain mail. “For fall I started by look­ing at old copies of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar from the era, as well as the work of (French fash­ion pho­tog­ra­pher) Guy Bour­din and (the God­fa­ther of the US pa­parazzi cul­ture, pho­tog­ra­pher) Ron Galella’s images of the ’70s so­ci­ety set.”

Wil­liamson isn’t alone. At Saint Lau­rent, Heidi Sli­mane took his cues from Yves’s own edgy cre­ations when he was at the helm of London’s Youthquake, pre­sent­ing a re­fresh­ing take on the ’60s with his all-fringed, fur clad, shift-dress-sport­ing, and sparkly over-the-knee boot wear­ing mod­els look­ing like groupies spilling out of a Rolling Stones con­cert.

But this isn’t an overnight re­vival. It be­gan a year ago, in Spring 2013, when brands like Louis Vuit­ton, Moschino, Paco Ra­banne, and Marc Ja­cobs paid homage to London’s mod move­ment: Jump­suits at Ra­banne; neon checks at Vuit­ton; op­ti­cal stripes and leopard prints at Ja­cobs; and dou­ble-breasted pea coats at Moschino. That was 12 months ago, and the vo­cab­u­lary for this sea­son has evolved far ahead, with de­sign­ers of­fer­ing mod­ern takes on ’60s clas­sics.



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