Harper's Bazaar (India) - - BAZAAR STYLE -

For his Fall 2014 cou­ture lineup, Sabyasachi Mukher­jee mixed tra­di­tional In­dian tech­niques with a touch of nostal­gia “This year,” said Sabyasachi Mukher­jee, “the mood for the col­lec­tion is about com­plete para­doxes.” And this col­lec­tion had that in abun­dance. Ti­tled Firoz­abad, the de­signer’s Fall ’14 cou­ture show took us on a nos­tal­gic jour­ney, re­vis­it­ing sta­ple In­dian tech­niques like zardozi and thread­work, but on un­usual sur­faces like can­vas and cot­ton. And while he did not as­cribe the in­spi­ra­tion to a par­tic­u­lar time or place-the only ref­er­ence be­ing the name of the col­lec­tion, a ten­u­ous con­nec­tion with a golden past, rep­re­sented via the back­drop of a lux­u­ri­ously-ap­pointed lo­co­mo­tive-it was ev­i­dent that the in­tri­cate crafts of the coun­try were on top of his mind. The stand­outs were the anti-fit blouses and vo­lu­mi­nous lehen­gas cut from beige cot­ton twill or can­vas, em­broi­dered with bold, monochro­matic zardozi in colours like emer­ald, ruby, and sap­phire.

Clock­wise from top left: Vin­tage trunks and travel cases; a flo­ral still life by Em­i­lie Preyer; a por­trait of the de­signer; a Davis Sewing Ma­chine card; mod­els walk­ing the ramp for Sabyasachi; a flo­ral wa­ter­colour; a de­tail of the show setup; a fab­ric...

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