Hindustan Times (Bathinda)

Savour local flavours topped with bonhomie

- Dr Gulbahar S Sidhu gulbaharsi­dhu@rediffmail.com The writer is a Jalandhar-based psychiatri­st

On a recent visit to the bustling city of Gorakhpur, the local taxi driver literally implored me to visit a traditiona­l eatery in the heart of the city famous for serving delicious “chhole bhature”. We snaked our way through unending traffic, loud horns, and inordinate delays to make it to the small shop with a big reputation.

I was welcomed with an infectious smile and warm hospitalit­y that made me forget for a moment that I was not in my home state of Punjab. The owner asserted with folded hands, “Bhai saheb, aap Punjab ke chhole bhature bhool jaoge.”

I must confess that his confidence was not misplaced. He asked the taxi driver to take me to a nearby shop known for mouth-watering “imartis” and another small joint serving “lassi”.

The delectable local flavours and affectiona­te bonhomie gave me food for thought as I made my way back to the hotel.

My memories took me back to a dhaba on the Kalka-shimla highway where the Himachali owner served sumptuous “rajma-chawal” along with piping hot tea in “kulhar” on a rainy morning years ago. We stayed on in the dhaba until the rain stopped and he cautioned us to drive slowly on the slippery stretch.

On another visit to Amritsar, I recall enjoying “Amritsari kulche” at a roadside food stall, the taste of which still lingers on.

Once, on a visit to Pakistan, a tea stall owner, on being asked why the cup of tea was so expensive there, jokingly remarked, “Chai patti tan tuhaadi hi hai ji. Asin tan sirf doodh te cheeni hi payee hai (The tea leaves are yours from India, we have only added the milk and sugar).” But he refused to charge a single rupee from us saying, “Tussi tan sadde mehmaan ho (You are our guest).” The tea, somehow, tasted so much better!

What is it that sets these local food joints apart even in this era of multinatio­nal food chains? The gleaming and swanky modern food joints with their attendant parapherna­lia of menu, for instance, available on one’s smart phone by scanning a barcode, among other things, seem to lack something, which these local eateries have in abundance.

The affection and the shared moments of laughter set them apart. Local flavours only add to the dining out experience. The feeling of oneness and fraternity is what these local joints unwittingl­y serve. This human touch is even more relevant in the present era. Is it not a fact that the next generation, brought up on a staple diet of internatio­nal food joints and digital food delivery apps, is missing out on this important aspect?

It’s a question to ponder on. It’s time to rediscover the local eating joints for reasons that go far beyond the culinary delights.

THE SWANKY MODERN FOOD JOINTS WITH THEIR ATTENDANT PARAPHERNA­LIA OF MENU, FOR INSTANCE, AVAILABLE ON ONE’S SMART PHONE BY SCANNING A BARCODE, SEEM TO LACK SOMETHING, WHICH THESE LOCAL EATERIES HAVE IN ABUNDANCE

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