Hindustan Times (Delhi)

MARRYING SWEETS WITH CHAI

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Tea stalls almost always stock eatables. Unfortunat­ely, the trend these days is to cram up the shelves with cigarette packs and tobacco pouches.

Even so, there still exist quite a few chai places where you can get an old-fashioned fen or rusk. Then there are occasional stalls doubling up as drive-in mithai destinatio­ns—stocked with traditiona­l sweetmeats.

Such as Chaudhury Tea Stall on Old Delhigurga­on Road near Gurugram’s Atul Kataria Chowk. The teeny-weenie place is one of those increasing­ly rare pavement shacks that keep its sugary eatables in glass jars (apparently those things are too hefty and impractica­l to maintain these days). The delicacies available here: maida barfi, soan papdi, coconut laddoo, atta biscuit and fen. Try all. Each goes well with the stall’s chai but the coconut laddoo is out of this world, the fen is extravagan­tly flaky, and the too-sweet atta biscuit comes embedded with crispy pieces of roasted almonds.

Stall owner Jara Singh shrugs. He hasn’t made these mithais and biscuits, he confesses sportingly. “They come from a factory in Delhi but I don’t know from which factory... a supplier brings them to me.”

The word ‘factory’ must not dampen the craving for these sticky tea-time sweets. Instead, consider the scale of the makeshift ecosystem consisting of these so-called factories, the anonymous suppliers who commute long distances on bikes daily, and modest shacks like Chaudhury Tea Stall. All these elements come together to give us an instant chai-flavoured sugar high.

Such tea-mithai setups were more common in the recent past for “now most customers ask for namkeen packets, which are cleaner and cheaper,” confides Mr Singh. In fact, he, too, stocks those ubiquitous “fast-moving” ₹5 aloo bhujiya packets. The coconut laddoo, on the other hand, costs ₹10 and doesn’t sell that fast even though it’s doubly yummy.

Be warned: Mr Singh keeps his chai readymade in a thermos flask. He is, however, amenable to making fresh chai on request. Open daily from 7am to 9pm.

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