Jewish cuisine: One cup faith, two spoons tradition
Esther David, 76, is an Indian Jew who grew up in a large joint family in Ahmedabad and made a career as an art critic, columnist and visiting professor in art history at CEPT University, before writing her first book at the age of 45. The Sahitya Akademi awardee’s previous works include the novel Book of Rachel (about a lone Jewish woman trying to preserve her community’s heritage in coastal Maharashtra) and the non-fiction work, Ahmedabad: City with a Past.
David’s latest book, Bene Appetit, takes readers into the kitchens of five Jewish communities across India — the Bene Israel Jews of western India, the Cochin Jews of Kerala, the Baghdadi Jews of Kolkata, the Bene Ephraim of Andhra Pradesh and the Bnei Menashe of Manipur and Mizoram.
Released by Harpercollins, it explores the elements of faith and tradition that have moulded Jewish cuisine in India, and documents how the dwindling community (down to about 5,000 from about 50,000 in 1940) has found ways to preserve its food heritage. Excerpts from an interview:
What were some of the things that stood out for you as you visited the different Jewish communities spread out across India?
I think I was pleasantly surprised to see that Jews all over India strictly follow the Jewish dietary law. They don’t mix dairy and meat, only eat kosher meat and make their own grape juice for kiddush (a Jewish blessing said before Shabbat dinner and other festive meals). They pray in Hebrew, although they speak regional languages. The synagogue is at the centre of the Jewish community, no matter which region they reside in.
Why does food play such a prominent role in Jewish festivals and communities?
Jewish festivals are celebrated in context to a particular Biblical event. So, the Passover Seder table is set with symbolic foods which includes unleavened bread. When Moses was about to lead the Jews to freedom, as the waters of the Red Sea parted, the Jewish women quickly made a dough of flour with water and carried it with them. When they reached the other side and the sea covered the path behind them, they made unleavened bread or Matzo, to symbolize the hardship of their flight to freedom. Hanukkah is celebrated in memory of Jewish victory over Greek invasion. In earlier times, a little oil was left to light the oil lamps, for the re-dedication of the temple in Jerusalem. So, snacks fried in oil are symbolically made for the Hanukkah meal.
What would you say are some of the key differences between Western Jewish food and the food of Indian Jews?
In the West, most ingredients to make Jewish festive meals are available off the rack. Indian Jews have to make most foods at home or at the synagogue, as things like haroset or date-sheera are not available. Indian Jews make a hand rolled flatbread or bhakri for the traditional Matzo. They also make grape sherbet instead of kosher wine, which is not available in India. Another contrast is that Indian Jews make rice and rice chapatis for the Passover meal, but Western Jews do not make rice-based dishes for Passover.
Were there any challenges to documenting the recipes of such diverse Jewish communities?
I had to be very careful about the dietary law and ensure I didn’t mention butter or ghee in any non-vegetarian recipe. I’m not religious, so I was scared of making a mistake. I had to check and re-check the recipes multiple times for such errors. There are certain festivals that I haven’t mentioned in the book because I haven’t understood them fully myself. So, I’ve lots to learn about Jewish culture, along with Hebrew.
There’s a lot that’s not known about the Jewish community, especially the Bene Ephraim Jews of Andhra Pradesh and the Bnei Menashe Jews of Manipur and Mizoram. I visited and wrote about them. Their faith is so strong. It was inspiring. I think somehow the book sums up what it means to be Jewish. We don’t have to be ultra-orthodox; if we remember our history, culture and laws, this is enough to preserve our Jewish identity.