Align khadi legacy with demands of modern era
The Uttar Pradesh government decision to include khadi fashion show in UP Day celebrations is recognition of the sector’s role in inclusive development and its myriad employment potential. Khadi and handloom is as integral to our cultural heritage as zari is to bridal trousseau.
The Rig-Veda, Mahabharata and Ramayana expound upon the art of spinning and weaving. Woven cloth, bone needles and spindles have been found in Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa. A cache of block-printed fabrics, mainly of Gujarati origin, discovered in Egyptian tombs exhibit the demand of Indian cotton textiles abroad and their export since the 19th century BC. This tradition of excellence has since been preserved by generations of skilled artisans engaged in the art of spinning and weaving by hand.
Today, the khadi-handloom sector employs over four million weavers and allied production workers, bulk of whom are SCs, STs, OBCs and women. Textiles is the second largest employer, next to agriculture in our country. Khadi-handloom industry is eco-friendly, decentralised and rural-based and hence very important for our developing economy. However, the 2010 Handloom Census portrayed a dismal trend. The number of weavers was declining at a rate of 7% per annum and the count of handlooms was dwindling. The Census revealed that a weaver earned merely Rs 3,400 per month as against the all-India average of Rs 4,500 per month for any worker.
There have been debates in chat rooms and news columns on how to save this sector; whether they should be declared niche product or not. Handspun and handwoven products are unique, they are made with threads replete with passion, patience, elegance and skill. They deserve a matching remuneration.
India occupies an enviable place in the world as 85% of the global handloom production occurs in our country. Other handloom producing nations like Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Cambodia and Indonesia manufacture a very limited range of products, mainly for domestic consumption. In contrast, the export of our handloom products is registering growth every year.
India has the capability to meet the demand for handmade products across the globe due to its demographic advantage and versatile cultural heritage. A targeted approach is required for aligning our rich legacy with the demands of the modern era by imbibing the latest designs. A Banarsi or Chanderi weaver can earn more if he contemporises his sari. The earnings increase further if he diversifies into exportable accessories like stoles, scarves, ties, belts, bags, pouches and home furnishings such as cushion covers, table runners and curtains. This calls for a strong collaboration of weavers with designers.
Premium handloom items like the Patan Patola, the Baluchari, the Jamdani, the Ikat and the Kani need to be projected as niche products. Though this approach serves only a limited segment of the highly skilled weavers, it is expected to lead to revival of the sector. The remaining 80% of the weavers would need to be dealt with in a different way. For both the niche couture and the prêt mass producers, there is a need to generate a sense of pride with the occupation. As a first step, professional institutes like ITIs, polytechnics, NIFT and NID can start imparting training in khadi and handloom clusters.