Back to 5 kulche
On revisiting a snack cart that was popular in the pre-pandemic era
Chhole kulche is like haiku, the Japanese poems that say so much in so few words. With almost no ghee-tel, the dish can be as light as a feather, and still be mealy. Made of maida, kulche bread is masssteamed in small “factories.” Chhole, which here are green matar sun-dried to a pale yellow, are boiled in water and left at that. The art is in the garnishing. An archetypal cart is stocked with an array of ingredients that gives it a colourful palette: green kheera, pale pink pyaz rings, red tomato slices and yellow neembu.
One longtime chhole kulche cart is Guptaji ke Mashoor Butter Walle Chhole Kulche, old by more than 20 years. This modest establishment near Gurgaon’s Apna Bazar complex was very popular before the pandemic. It took a hit with the arrival of the pandemic; most of its patrons were office-goers, as well as people with casual day-jobs, and they all had to reduce their outdoorsy excursions during the darkest months of the coronavirus. Later, the stall somewhat recovered. During a recent visit… well, let’s first list the cart’s cool facts.
As the name suggests, the cart’s kulchas, sourced from a trustworthy supplier, are treated to piping hot butter just before serving. Five kinds of kulchas are in the menu—plain, masala, long (because it’s long), aloo and paneer.
This afternoon, not much of a crowd around the cart, as owner Rajesh Gupta tosses a smile to a solo customer. He explains that the lunch hour just got over. Whatever, the lack of bustle makes one homesick for an afternoon visit that this reporter made to the stall before the pandemic. Then, half a dozen customers were sitting along the length of the cart—one salesman was sitting on the red cooking cylinder. After yet another order was placed, the stall owner ladled chhole into a bowl, and with his fingers moving like an accomplished pianist, he quickly added the garnishes and squeezesd the lemon dry. As his blurry hand reached for garam masala, he asked, “Very spicy, middle spicy or no spice?”
The ritual is still the same. Same query is asked, and the taste is as delicious. Whereas in other stalls, the chhole is topped with chopped dhaniyan leaves, chukandar and adrak, the man at this stall keeps it simple with only a few spices. Sliced gajar, mango pickles and green chillies form the garnish.
The cart opens daily from 10am to 5pm.