After shawls, Kullu’s woollen sarees steal limelight
Around 78 years after Hindi film actress Devika Rani commissioned the first Kullu shawls and catapulted them to fame, designer woollen sarees from the Himalayan valley have stolen the limelight and given the artisans another means to eke out a living amid the pandemic.
Kullu shawls play a significant role in shoring the economy of the valley. It is estimated that around 30,000 people work part-time and about 15,000 people earn their livelihood by working full-time on weaving the distinctive shawls. Almost every household in Kullu has a handloom
In 1942, when Devika Rani, the daughter- in- law of celebrated Russian painter Nicholas Roerich, came to Kullu, she took an active interest in the looms and it was at her request that Sheru Ram of Banontar village fashioned the earliest urban-sized shawl. Inspired by Sheru Ram, Urvi Dhar started manufacturing the shawls commercially.
Providing a fillip to the economy
However, now hoping to give a fillip to the economy, a young Dehradhun- based textile designer Deshna Mamgain, 27, has collaborated with local weavers of Bodh Shawls to produce a unique range of woollen designer sarees.
“I came across Kullu’s beautiful craft and cultural heritage when I was assigned a project on the Kullu shawl. I initiated a market survey in January and got a first-hand account of the difficulties being faced craftsmen. They were facing a stiff competition from cheap imitation woollen shawls being produced in Panipat, which were also being branded as Kullu shawls,” she said.
This year, the ministry of textiles had sanctioned a project for training and skill development of the local artisans in Kullu’s Shamshi village, as a part of which Deshna had worked on new designs and the manufacturing of sarees.
Around 30 women were trained in weaving shawls.
Designs capture essence of Himachal
“I realised that a lot of work has already been done on the Kullu shawls, which are famous all over the world for their designs. Therefore, I came up with the idea of the saree that has been a part of the Indian wardrobe for ages. These sarees are unlikely to go out of vogue. I have used auspicious colours and patterns for the saree. My designs have the essence of Himachal. The patterns are inspired from the local fauna and flora, including pine trees, bodhi flower, sheep, deer and rhododendron flowers,” says Deshna, adding that the iconic Kullu patti can be seen on the saree border.
The exquisite pieces that span 5.5m and come with a blouse piece start at ₹4,000. “The weaving is so fine and soft that they can easily be worn by any age group. A wide variety of designs and patterns are available,” says Chime Angmo, general manager, industries department, Kullu.
“There is high demand for woolen sarees in winter across India and the new designs will boost the local economy,” she said.
The government is likely to encourage the other shawl weavers to manufacture Kullu sarees.